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ACAngnqbtr
September 4th, 2007, 09:06 AM
Chick production is a form of art and a science in its own right. It is not just a matter of letting our hen sit on their eggs or using any incubator we can grab of in order to have a good hatch.

A lot of factors affect the production of uniform, quality and vigorous gamefowl chicks. Proper management practices starting from: BREEDING, GOOD HEALTH and NUTRITION, LINE SELECTION, HANDLING and STORAGE of EGGS BEFORE INCUBATION and PROPER INCUBATION and HATCHERY MANAGEMENT.

1. Breeding - preparing the broodfowls for the breeding season
2. Good Health and Nutrition - giving our broodcock and broodhen proper layer feed ration and necessary multivitamins and minerals for egg production. Breeders are fed energy giving diets and nutrients to optimize egg production. Maternal nutrients are transfered to the chick embryo thru the yolk of an egg. Developing embryos inside the yolk gets nutrients from the albumen of the egg.
3. Line Selection - choosing the right broodcock and broodhen to be mated as desired upon.
4. Handling and Storage of eggs Before Incubation - selection and care of eggs before setting in the incubator.

Breeding, Good Health and Nutrition, Line Selection and Proper Handling and Storage of Eggs are the first four important factors in order to PRODUCE VIABLE EGGS necessary to attain and maintain HIGH FERTILITY levels of eggs for quality chick production. At this stage, the genetic traits of the egg is already set upon fertilization. Next is for egg to be handled and stored properly in order to maintain fertility until ready to be set for incubation.

Considering a viable egg is produced, it is now very important to have:

5. Proper Incubation and Hatchery Management - Incubation is a heat related (or temperature dependent) process that determines the quality and vitality of day-old chicks. The hatchability of incubated fertile egg depends upon the method of incubation (natural/hen or incubator) by which the biological needs of fertile developing embryo is being supplied with. The biological needs of the developing embryo of a fertile egg are as follows in the order of their importance: (1)temperature, (2) relative humidity, (3) correct ventilation and, (4) turning of eggs. For an incubator to attain high levels of hatchabiltiy, it must have the right design and technology to meet those four important incubation factors.

Choosing which method of incubation to use depend on the breeder's plan on egg and chick production program including the availability of facilities on hand. some breeders use native hens: Natural Incubation - as surrogate mothers since most broodhens are not sitting type. Artificial Incubation is a method that uses a machine called INCUBATORS that simulates what the hen does to its hatching eggs. It is practical and economical to use in large scale egg production. It is efficient in producing large number of chicks in batches and facilitates uniformity in management operations like vaccination, feeding and medication program.

Hatching vigorous and quality day-old chicks is important in gamefowl production. In our relatively small sector, with its many tradditional and backward practices, there is room for innovative ideas and appropriate technology aimed at significantly improving the quality of hatch on the premise that the vitality of day-old chick will determine the ultimate and maximum tecnical fighting performance of fighting cocks as it grows up.

Dynamite asil
September 4th, 2007, 10:48 AM
Very good info Thanks bro

ACAngnqbtr
September 14th, 2007, 09:45 AM
moving this thread up so others may able to read.

be of help come this breeding season

butsoy912
September 14th, 2007, 09:58 AM
Up lang natin para mabasa naman sa iba......

jude torres
September 14th, 2007, 10:39 AM
In Order For You To Produce Quality, You Should Start Right, Meaning Get Quality Materials To Breed, Breed Quality Brood Cock And Brood Hen Would Likely Give You Quality Chicks... Rule Of Thumb, Good Luck

hanes
September 15th, 2007, 10:54 AM
first you have the money and contacts to buy quality gamefowl trios either imported or local breed, so there is no reason not to produce a quality gamefowl chicks.

ACAngnqbtr
September 15th, 2007, 02:30 PM
jude torres and hanes are right.

your thoughts are categorically under factors 1,2 and 3 as stated above

CrookedToe
September 16th, 2007, 06:13 AM
Hello sir,
Are you the Gentleman that presents incubation at the TJT academy? GOOD TOPIC.

ACAngnqbtr
September 16th, 2007, 01:07 PM
Hello sir,
Are you the Gentleman that presents incubation at the TJT academy? GOOD TOPIC.

YES SIR.

I am the guest lecturer at the TJT Cocking Academy on Incubation and Hatchery Management.

EAA Indians
September 17th, 2007, 06:43 AM
Preng AC, could you please expand your method on: proper storage and handling of eggs before incubation. thanks-ed

ACAngnqbtr
September 19th, 2007, 12:37 AM
Preng AC, could you please expand your method on: proper storage and handling of eggs before incubation. thanks-ed

Sir EAA Indians,

Please read my thread: Importance of Incubation and Hatchery Management on. . . . .
I have a detailed discussion on the matter.
Hope this could be of help

ACAngnqbtr
September 19th, 2007, 01:14 AM
:D marami pong salamat sa inpormasyon...........!!!!!!!!!!!!:)






You're welcome sir!

Good luck this coming breeding season. Prepare: feed well and right your breeders.

valpunz
September 19th, 2007, 03:13 PM
very imformative,thank you.

rapid fire
September 19th, 2007, 04:24 PM
good breeding materials and good management

ACAngnqbtr
September 19th, 2007, 05:23 PM
good breeding materials and good management

YES! And i am talking about good management practices starting from breeding all the way to incubation and hatchery management. Negligence in any among factors will affect the quality of chicks produced considerably.

KwinmtadoR
October 1st, 2007, 09:24 AM
Very informative thread.

thanks

sonaja782005
October 3rd, 2007, 02:52 PM
up ko lng para sa iba gusto bumasa or mgshare....

acangincubators
October 15th, 2007, 10:58 AM
moving this thread up for others: newbies to read

in preparation for the coming breeding season

sandalilang
October 17th, 2007, 06:26 AM
nice thread sir, very informative one, thanks

gerka
October 19th, 2007, 08:53 AM
Nice thread, very informative....for those who have incubators, what about us who dont have incubators and still rely on hen hatching any info for us guy???? thanks

acangincubators
October 19th, 2007, 09:19 AM
Nice thread, very informative....for those who have incubators, what about us who dont have incubators and still rely on hen hatching any info for us guy???? thanks

same mgt practices for breeding preparation, feeds and nutrition, proper handling and storage of eggs before incubation. The difference is only on the method you use for incubation. Please read on my threads on these topics here and at the other forum.

Hope it could be of help in some little way.

sonaja782005
October 19th, 2007, 09:21 AM
mam,

may PM po ako sayo.. just an update! pls check po. thanks..:)

acangincubators
October 19th, 2007, 09:36 AM
mam,

may PM po ako sayo.. just an update! pls check po. thanks..:)

Got it sir, pls keep me posted on the matter, goodluck sa breeding

gerka
October 19th, 2007, 09:47 AM
same mgt practices for breeding preparation, feeds and nutrition, proper handling and storage of eggs before incubation. The difference is only on the method you use for incubation. Please read on my threads on these topics here and at the other forum.

Hope it could be of help in some little way.

I already have read the other thread you made and i got the message and the information i need...again, very nice thread,very informative...looking forward to using incubators in the future...thanks

acangincubators
October 19th, 2007, 10:08 AM
I already have read the other thread you made and i got the message and the information i need...again, very nice thread,very informative...looking forward to using incubators in the future...thanks


you are most welcome sir. Start it right, goodluck sa breeding.

ironcobra
October 19th, 2007, 10:59 AM
dagdag kaalaman na naman po iyan, para sa isang baguhan na tulad ko.. keep coming,, para maraming matutunan.. salamat po. gandang umaga..

KwinmtadoR
October 26th, 2007, 12:04 PM
I have read through all your threads sir, appreciate much for the infos, thanks

danghay boomy
October 26th, 2007, 01:05 PM
AM PLANNING TO BUY AN INCUBATOR, SO THIS THREAD AND YOUR OTHER THREAD HELPS ME A LOT. THANK YOU AND MORE POWER.

sandalilang
November 4th, 2007, 03:22 PM
i learned a lot from your threads sir

thanks

ACAngnqbtr
November 13th, 2007, 01:34 PM
moving this thread up for others to read

SkYLine
November 13th, 2007, 01:37 PM
nice topic, up ko

skyline

KwinmtadoR
November 18th, 2007, 06:40 PM
moving this thread so others may able to read

ACAngnqbtr
November 26th, 2007, 04:59 PM
Got to bounce up this thread.
A reading material/reference for those who will
start breeding this season.

Ir192-Co60
November 26th, 2007, 05:50 PM
Very informative thread to begginer guys like me....keep posting mates:D

thunderball
November 26th, 2007, 06:16 PM
nice thread ver informative

ronking
December 7th, 2007, 05:54 PM
nice info ACA...but u forgot the most important thing...

ACAngnqbtr
December 7th, 2007, 08:08 PM
nice info ACA...but u forgot the most important thing...
would you mind sharing it with us sir

KwinmtadoR
December 13th, 2007, 11:51 AM
very informative thread sir. I learned a lot in time for the breeding season, thank you sir.

Ir192-Co60
December 13th, 2007, 12:43 PM
I wonder what ronking is hitting at that aca had forgotten to mention:confused:
sir ronkin, would you mind sharing this thing? para kumpletos rekados na kaming mga begginers:D

BOMBARDEIR
December 13th, 2007, 12:50 PM
Got to bounce up this thread.
A reading material/reference for those who will
start breeding this season.

Sir,ACA with due respect i have some Question regarding my third batch hatch this year..

The chicks that comes out have a skinny Legs and they are weak.No Help what so ever in letting them out from the shell.They all dies after 5days.
What do you think happens on this..

I use a manual 100Cap.Incubator

Thank You,
Bombardeir

Ir192-Co60
December 13th, 2007, 01:03 PM
Originally Posted by BOMBARDEIR
Sir,ACA with due respect i have some Question regarding my third batch hatch this year..

The chicks that comes out have a skinny Legs and they are weak.No Help what so ever in letting them out from the shell.They all dies after 5days.
What do you think happens on this..



This would really be interesting to know...:cool:

ronking
December 13th, 2007, 05:59 PM
sorry guys i forgot this thread...doin alot of overtime at work so dat i can pay my nex plane ticket to phils...:)

my first bit is u need money to acquire quality breeding materials(this never ends)...dats the most important thing cos no matter wat u do if u bred junk it will always be junk...

2nd bit is the farm location and facility...the bigger the range the better...

3rd is a good incubator if use them....wit back-up generator for black outs...

4th...good hard workin honest farm boys and girls...dat really know how to look after the chicks in the range...

5th....best quality feeds on the market if u can get ur hands on it...

6th...be ruthless wen culling...

last thing is....get a good handler...

im also a begginer...just goin thru the 2nd year of my breeding now...wat i mention above is excactly wat i did last year and i came close from being the breeder of the year in my association on my first year...

if ur a member of any association...they should have a vet doctor for the new members seminar...like mine...we hav our own vet doctor that helps new begginner like myself...

i know youve heard this b4 but im just saying it again just to remind ya...goodday kakmyts...

BOMBARDEIR
December 13th, 2007, 11:56 PM
Sir,ACA with due respect i have some Question regarding my third batch of hatch this year..

The chicks that comes out have a skinny Legs and they are weak.No Help what so ever in letting them out from the shell.They all dies after 5days.
What do you think happens on this..

I use a manual 100Cap.Incubator

Thank You,
Bombardeir

swtrhtch1925
December 14th, 2007, 02:23 AM
http://randallburkey.com/fullsize.asp?subt=&page=1&code=C28&location=results&process=add&item=5168

HINATAG
December 14th, 2007, 06:11 AM
last thing is....get a good handler...
Men to this bro!!!

ACAngnqbtr
December 14th, 2007, 06:23 AM
sorry guys i forgot this thread...doin alot of overtime at work so dat i can pay my nex plane ticket to phils...:)

my first bit is u need money to acquire quality breeding materials(this never ends)...dats the most important thing cos no matter wat u do if u bred junk it will always be junk...

2nd bit is the farm location and facility...the bigger the range the better...

3rd is a good incubator if use them....wit back-up generator for black outs...

4th...good hard workin honest farm boys and girls...dat really know how to look after the chicks in the range...

5th....best quality feeds on the market if u can get ur hands on it...

6th...be ruthless wen culling...

last thing is....get a good handler...

im also a begginer...just goin thru the 2nd year of my breeding now...wat i mention above is excactly wat i did last year and i came close from being the breeder of the year in my association on my first year...

if ur a member of any association...they should have a vet doctor for the new members seminar...like mine...we hav our own vet doctor that helps new begginner like myself...

i know youve heard this b4 but im just saying it again just to remind ya...goodday kakmyts...


Thank you for sharing your valuable management tips sir. These are realy essential for breeding.
Anyway, i treated the subject matter on the premise that the more specific farm management factors (like those you mentioned) are being taken cared of.

Thank you sir, keep more management tips coming. We need it in time for this breeding season.

ACAngnqbtr
December 14th, 2007, 06:26 AM
http://randallburkey.com/fullsize.asp?subt=&page=1&code=C28&location=results&process=add&item=5168


Are you using this one sir? Is it locally available?
hope we could do the toe marking together next time

swtrhtch1925
December 14th, 2007, 06:44 AM
Are you using this one sir? Is it locally available?
hope we could do the toe marking together next time
I asked around and no luck. I get it here in the us. but two of those is for the whole chicks for one year. drug companies should look to making this available in pinas. good healthy chicks. hope this helps

Ir192-Co60
December 14th, 2007, 12:37 PM
thanks for sharing your thoughts in here sir ronking...we appreciate it very much...more power:)

Super_Bayong
December 14th, 2007, 12:48 PM
Very good info Thanks bro


yup

ACAngnqbtr
December 14th, 2007, 05:56 PM
Sir,ACA with due respect i have some Question regarding my third batch of hatch this year..

The chicks that comes out have a skinny Legs and they are weak.No Help what so ever in letting them out from the shell.They all dies after 5days.
What do you think happens on this..

I use a manual 100Cap.Incubator

Thank You,
Bombardeir

it maybe due to high incubation or hatching temperature. you may check your incubator temperature and humidity settings.
another cause may be due to viral infection due to improper sanitation of your incubating eggs or hatching trays.
do also check breeder's nutrition. it may also due to so much inbreeding.
age of broodstock should also be checked.

you may analyze the primary cause by deduction method sir.
best of all, totally sanitize your incubator unit, before having the temperature and humidity setting callibrated properly.

KwinmtadoR
February 7th, 2008, 06:43 AM
Very informative thread for a newbie like me, this will help me for my breeding/chick production

nielyams
February 11th, 2008, 06:18 PM
moving this thread up for others to read
many thanks to you Sir AC Ang for information.
up...
up...
up...
Good luck & more power cockmates!

butcher2
February 11th, 2008, 10:56 PM
AC could u share some information on chick care after incubation?

ACAngnqbtr
February 12th, 2008, 11:27 PM
AC could u share some information on chick care after incubation?

Doc TJT has a thread on this topic sir, kindly check

njyomo
February 13th, 2008, 08:31 AM
Let's bring it up!!!

sandalilang
February 27th, 2008, 09:06 PM
nice info sir, learned some tips intime for my breeding, thank you

BOMBARDEIR
February 27th, 2008, 09:25 PM
Chick production is a form of art and a science in its own right. It is not just a matter of letting our hen sit on their eggs or using any incubator we can grab of in order to have a good hatch.

A lot of factors affect the production of uniform, quality and vigorous gamefowl chicks. Proper management practices starting from: BREEDING, GOOD HEALTH and NUTRITION, LINE SELECTION, HANDLING and STORAGE of EGGS BEFORE INCUBATION and PROPER INCUBATION and HATCHERY MANAGEMENT.

1. Breeding - preparing the broodfowls for the breeding season
2. Good Health and Nutrition - giving our broodcock and broodhen proper layer feed ration and necessary multivitamins and minerals for egg production. Breeders are fed energy giving diets and nutrients to optimize egg production. Maternal nutrients are transfered to the chick embryo thru the yolk of an egg. Developing embryos inside the yolk gets nutrients from the albumen of the egg.
3. Line Selection - choosing the right broodcock and broodhen to be mated as desired upon.
4. Handling and Storage of eggs Before Incubation - selection and care of eggs before setting in the incubator.

Breeding, Good Health and Nutrition, Line Selection and Proper Handling and Storage of Eggs are the first four important factors in order to PRODUCE VIABLE EGGS necessary to attain and maintain HIGH FERTILITY levels of eggs for quality chick production. At this stage, the genetic traits of the egg is already set upon fertilization. Next is for egg to be handled and stored properly in order to maintain fertility until ready to be set for incubation.

Considering a viable egg is produced, it is now very important to have:

5. Proper Incubation and Hatchery Management - Incubation is a heat related (or temperature dependent) process that determines the quality and vitality of day-old chicks. The hatchability of incubated fertile egg depends upon the method of incubation (natural/hen or incubator) by which the biological needs of fertile developing embryo is being supplied with. The biological needs of the developing embryo of a fertile egg are as follows in the order of their importance: (1)temperature, (2) relative humidity, (3) correct ventilation and, (4) turning of eggs. For an incubator to attain high levels of hatchabiltiy, it must have the right design and technology to meet those four important incubation factors.

Choosing which method of incubation to use depend on the breeder's plan on egg and chick production program including the availability of facilities on hand. some breeders use native hens: Natural Incubation - as surrogate mothers since most broodhens are not sitting type. Artificial Incubation is a method that uses a machine called INCUBATORS that simulates what the hen does to its hatching eggs. It is practical and economical to use in large scale egg production. It is efficient in producing large number of chicks in batches and facilitates uniformity in management operations like vaccination, feeding and medication program.

Hatching vigorous and quality day-old chicks is important in gamefowl production. In our relatively small sector, with its many tradditional and backward practices, there is room for innovative ideas and appropriate technology aimed at significantly improving the quality of hatch on the premise that the vitality of day-old chick will determine the ultimate and maximum tecnical fighting performance of fighting cocks as it grows up.

Nice Info..Keep it coming..

fire85
May 6th, 2010, 04:28 AM
How often do you give baby chicks vitamins via water???? Is red cell ok to use from day one? if so how often do you give? Thanks in advance for the advice.
any info about maintenance of young is also welcome here!!!!

bigggamefarm
May 6th, 2010, 05:00 AM
First 7 days give LS-50, red cell is to strong for young chicks

jcjfarms
May 6th, 2010, 10:14 AM
I start mine on ACV first 7 days then religously give them vit. and electrolytes. Feed them a good medicated feed around 20-22% protien. Most important dont overcrowd.

fire85
May 6th, 2010, 10:52 AM
Thanks thats info is very helpful... i just started doin what you guys SAID are no-no's , and just started having problems.




THANKS AGAIN

lurena
May 6th, 2010, 11:42 AM
Survival of the fittest. Don't give them anything. The weak chicks will cull themselves. The stronger will grow to be your next producers. My opinion.

fire85
May 6th, 2010, 11:50 AM
yeah I believe in this too, but have about 100 chicks in a 2x4x2 box with a light all 1 or two weeks old its gettin a little crowded in there. and the red cell OD them. lstarted losin em last week, lost about 10

Camarines
May 6th, 2010, 08:35 PM
BABY CHICKS

When the chicks hatch, the first drink of water they take should have vitamins and antibiotics in it, mix two bags of a good poultry vitamin and one bag of Terramycin or CTC together dry in a jar, stir this mixture and put one teaspoon of the mixed powder per gallon of water. Do this every day until the chicks are a month old.
Chicks need a protein level of at least 21%, so be sure your chick mash is that high or higher.
At a month old, run Amprol in the chicks water for five days. Then in three weeks, run Sulquin in their water for three days. Repeat every three weeks. Amprol for five days, then in three weeks Sulquin for three days.
When the chicks have been turned out where they have access to insects, bugs, etc. you must worm them. Every three to four weeks put one ounce of Wormal Granules in a pound of mash, make sure the chicks are hungry so they will eat it all in one feeding.
I like my stags to run out as long as possible. When you pen your stags give them a worm pill and spray them with Sectrol to get rid of lice and mites. Always remember to give another worm pill in 10 days, as that will break the worm life cycle.

TAICHUNG
May 6th, 2010, 09:50 PM
another interesting thread.......

gowanstarr
May 7th, 2010, 01:48 AM
I have had terrible luck with crooked toes this year. I cant figure out what is causing it. I feed Nutrena gamebird starter and vitamins in the water, they come out the shell with perfect toes then at about 6 weeeks old their toes start to go crooked on me,mainly the inside toes. Anyone have any advice on what is causing this. They are not overcrowded and they are on about 3 inches of pine chips with fresh food and water in front of them at all times. They are incubator hatched. Any help is appreciated:confused:

lurena
May 7th, 2010, 04:39 AM
Gowanstarr, its' the incubator. Try hatching your chicks with a broody hen. You probably won't get the crooked toes anymore. Besides your chicks will grow to be stronger and healthier. With incubator you get more deformities and the chicks are weaker. The best way to go is the natural way with a broody hen.

gowanstarr
May 7th, 2010, 04:50 AM
I figure it is the incubator also, after I had started noticing the crooked toes I let all my hens start sitting on their own eggs. I have not noticed any crooked toes on the hen hatched chicks but they are not quite at the age that the others starting getting crooked toes yet, so we will see. I got friends who hatch out of their bators without even trying and get great chicks with no problems, what the heck:confused:

jgmadridRMZ
May 7th, 2010, 05:41 AM
I figure it is the incubator also, after I had started noticing the crooked toes I let all my hens start sitting on their own eggs. I have not noticed any crooked toes on the hen hatched chicks but they are not quite at the age that the others starting getting crooked toes yet, so we will see. I got friends who hatch out of their bators without even trying and get great chicks with no problems, what the heck:confused:

Hi.. to all

our experience using incubator have showed us that you need check the temperature, the temperature of the room where you have your incubator also is important , it most be as stable as possible. there is a range in +/- F., in the case of the temperature is up, it will give you chicks with crooked toes problems. But we have found that the wires that you use in your breeding cage can cause this problem too even if your baby chicks are hen hatched. this wire is to let pass baby chick's feces to the floor below and so the baby chicks will not have contact with his own feces. if the wire is larger than the foot size of a baby chick they may have crooked toe problem. or if they behave in a very wild (stress), by themselves it will cause this problem regardless of the size of the wire.

since we don't want a lot chicks, we have use only hens for this work and the wires gave this problem too, but adjusting the wire size and the number of chickens in the breeding cage solve the problem.

I hope this help.
good post
cheers
JG

Keoni
May 7th, 2010, 06:18 AM
I have had terrible luck with crooked toes this year. I cant figure out what is causing it. I feed Nutrena gamebird starter and vitamins in the water, they come out the shell with perfect toes then at about 6 weeeks old their toes start to go crooked on me,mainly the inside toes. Anyone have any advice on what is causing this. They are not overcrowded and they are on about 3 inches of pine chips with fresh food and water in front of them at all times. They are incubator hatched. Any help is appreciated:confused:

I've had the crooked toe problem on 3 chicks hatched in my bator and afterward I have never had a problem. There isn't one single thing that causes it but it could be several things. Brood fowl should have lots of vitamins when breeding as a lack of them could cause the chicks have have crooked toes, incubator temp can cause it also. The thing that makes me think it isn't your incubator is that the chicks with toe issues from the incubator tend to show then right away but weeks after hatching so it may be a vitamin deficiency.

Good luck with it man. I'd also like to add if the chicks have toe issues before they have they may not hatch under a hen so they won't be seen as often, that's just my theory.

-Keoni

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 06:37 AM
What makes baby chicks have crooked toes I got 8 kels hatch chicks and 2 have crooked toes my or dad don't have them what makes chicks have them I had one that did but he's 2 weeks old now and his toe is straight now can anyone help thanks?

tntbundy
March 2nd, 2011, 06:52 AM
Sometimes the incubator gets to hot and it will cause this....sometimes it is caused by nutrition lacking in the hen. Most of the time it's the incubator.

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 06:54 AM
Will the chicsk grow out of it?

tntbundy
March 2nd, 2011, 07:02 AM
The majority will remain crooked toed but vitamins and electrolytes in the water will help the chicks . If it was the hatching and not the parents they will be fine for breeding but the ones with multiple bent toes want make it to the show because of bad footing on take off and landing...

wobbles
March 2nd, 2011, 07:03 AM
Could be too much calcium...........

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 07:03 AM
well dang alright thatnks sir

hitmonkey 2
March 2nd, 2011, 07:16 AM
you might not wont to do this but when we have them with crooked toes we just pull there heads off there just culls

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 07:25 AM
well io nly hatch off 30 to 40 chicks a year and useally don't raise but half if lucky do to pests but got the pests worked out now if worst comes to it the crooked toed ones will be punching bags or catch cocks for hand sparring wouldn't be brood material

chadcreel
March 2nd, 2011, 07:30 AM
if its from the incubator you can breed them and they wont pass it on. ive seen alot of crooked toe roosters win.

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 07:40 AM
Alright good that daddsy is a winner and the mommas dad was a big time winner so I really need these chicks to breed with thanks everyone

irvin88
March 2nd, 2011, 07:53 AM
Alright good that daddsy is a winner and the mommas dad was a big time winner so I really need these chicks to breed with thanks everyoneHey mate, I have baby chicks before that has crooked toes and everytime I see them i'll straightening their toes and as they get older they slowly become normal try it out...

gowanstarr
March 2nd, 2011, 08:03 AM
get em on the ground and outside and 75% or more should straighten up for you as long as it is not to crooked. I have had this problem before, mine would come out of the incubator fine and at about 3- 4 weeks they would start going crooked on me. I found that having a heat light too close to them will not let the tendons in the feet grow with the bones in the feet causing them too grow crooked. I fixed this by monitoring the temps in the brooder, have not had a prob since. Hope you get it figured out.

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 08:27 AM
Well I gotta keep them outside in my garage and it tends to get cold out there all this crazy weather in tn the lows still getting low so I I might keep the light a little to low but id rather thme be more warm than to cold and die like I said I don't raise that many xchicks a lot and need to try and keep them all

mckencade
March 2nd, 2011, 02:40 PM
I have personaly seen crooked toed roosters go on and put big wins with no ill effects.Just trying to say dont cull too soon.

Camarines
March 2nd, 2011, 05:49 PM
I have one baby chick with one feet crooked toe. I put tape on the feet to straighten them out. Twice the tape came off. I put the third one and it stayed. I use the clear tape used in hospitals but band-aid I think is much better.

My friend ask me this question on why he gets crooked toe on his still air incubator made of styrofoam. He's suspecting it's because of the styrofoam which he says is made of oil base material. I told him, I doubt it and it could be the moisture. He's not convince, he said he does not have this problem using incubator made of wood.

gamecock789
March 2nd, 2011, 07:45 PM
Well I use the styrofoam incybator so thath may be it

cockfighter_199
March 31st, 2011, 09:32 AM
Just wanting to know if anyone besides feeding chick starter does anything special for your chicks or biddies to get them going stronger than usual id like to hear all different opinions on how to get the healthiest chicks going strong thanks,erik:D

CARl0S
March 31st, 2011, 09:56 AM
Letting them run around with their momma outside, rice, fruits, b-12 in their water? idk

fulldrop
March 31st, 2011, 10:21 AM
Just wanting to know if anyone besides feeding chick starter does anything special for your chicks or biddies to get them going stronger than usual id like to hear all different opinions on how to get the healthiest chicks going strong thanks,erik:D
I raised some of the healthest last year. But I only have a backyard flock. I used the medicated chick starter and cook pearl barley, rice, and egg noodles in a big pot and add desiccated beef liver, soy protein, bone all powder, add some red cell, and mix it up good and put it in canning jars and keep it in the bottom of the frigs.I started giving them this when they we like couple of weeks old. I never lost a one, except what the hawks got, and they loved the mix. They would all most attack you when you pulled out a jar I raised 25 stags and all of them still look very healthy

cockfighter_199
March 31st, 2011, 10:22 AM
Letting them run around with their momma outside, rice, fruits, b-12 in their water? idk
alright cool thanks i was just wanting to start a thread to get some opinions but thank you carlos for the opinion

CARl0S
March 31st, 2011, 11:39 AM
fulldrop, i have been having the smae problem with those dang hawks! I had about 20 black crossed chicks and in a week it dropped to 15 then from 15 to 13 then to 11 and now i only got 7! It was a pair of hawks and i shot one with a pellet rifle, got him in the wing and he started flying sideways and now i only see 1 hawk...but good thing i got about 30 more baby chicks that are still with their mommas...oh i also have probloems with possums, and racoons once in a while....

blackmuff10
March 31st, 2011, 12:31 PM
carlos you should not tell hawk shooting stories on here as it is illegal . its just best not to post these things for everyone to see. but hawks and all animals are always up for a free chicken dinner..

fulldrop
March 31st, 2011, 12:31 PM
fulldrop, i have been having the smae problem with those dang hawks! I had about 20 black crossed chicks and in a week it dropped to 15 then from 15 to 13 then to 11 and now i only got 7! It was a pair of hawks and i shot one with a pellet rifle, got him in the wing and he started flying sideways and now i only see 1 hawk...but good thing i got about 30 more baby chicks that are still with their mommas...oh i also have probloems with possums, and racoons once in a while....
I really don't know what we can do about the hawk problem. When the chick are little those small hawks will fly in and get them fast.I just got out of court for having a pole trap and that cost me about five hundred dollars.you can get those possums, and racoons pretty easy with a steel trap or a live trap.Try that mix I posted for the chicks.I wouldn't give them alot of it tho, Two or three times a week, and the rest of the time there regular feed.All my chicks feather out early and was very healthy looking.I still give it to them when I find the time to fix it ;your friend in the sport;

WiNeReD
March 31st, 2011, 04:28 PM
I use Purina Turkey medicated starter until they get to 2 mos.,, then switch over to turkey grower.,, their first 2 weeks I mix Ls 50 in their water jug and occasionally mix in ACV.,, This year I tried fish-meal mixed in their feeds. ....Hatched 11 babies from 2 hens beginning of the month when it was 25 degrees at night,,, picked them up today and they felt pretty strong...

Camarines
March 31st, 2011, 10:49 PM
I mix duramycin and electrolyte with vitamins in a glass jar and put one teaspoon of this mix to a gallon of water. This is the drink I give the chicks.

cockfighter_199
March 31st, 2011, 11:45 PM
thank you all for your responses they sound good:)

Nayarit4
April 1st, 2011, 01:06 AM
I mix duramycin and electrolyte with vitamins in a glass jar and put one teaspoon of this mix to a gallon of water. This is the drink I give the chicks.


I also give duramycin-10 and electrolytes with vits but I do duramycin one day, regular water two days, electrolytes and vits, then regular water again and so on... I thought about mixing them together but wasn't sure if that was the way to go... if it has worked for you then I'll probably start doing that too.

Other than that just their chick starter with 28% protein from Purina and I like to mix a small amount of oyster shell too.

Sugarcreek
April 1st, 2011, 01:14 AM
I havent tried it but have read it works well... Take mirrors and hang them like wind chimes. You want them to twirl in the wind by winding up and and unwinding. Put them in different corrners or areas of your property.

I been looking for some cheap mirrors at yard sale to try it.

Camarines
April 1st, 2011, 03:03 AM
I also give duramycin-10 and electrolytes with vits but I do duramycin one day, regular water two days, electrolytes and vits, then regular water again and so on... I thought about mixing them together but wasn't sure if that was the way to go... if it has worked for you then I'll probably start doing that too.

Other than that just their chick starter with 28% protein from Purina and I like to mix a small amount of oyster shell too.

The idea of mixing the antibiotic with electrolytes w/ vitamins is from Mike Strecker's book. You can also do it with your antibiotic and B12 injectables for the keep. I think is saves a little bit of effort.

gcardinal03
April 1st, 2011, 03:32 AM
We feed boiled eggs a couple times a week...

frederick sy
April 1st, 2011, 02:55 PM
LS-50 for the 1st 7 days of life then after 3 weeks treat for cocci using Amprol alternate with sulfadimethoxine every 3 weeks up to penning age.3 times a week use probiotics especially after using those medicine.

gurkhawarrior
April 1st, 2011, 08:53 PM
put the chicks on the ground with the mother hen on day 1. This way, you make them get accustomed to the "elements" of your area. Normally, they don't get sick in the first few days(maternal immunity?)...just enough time for them to develop antibodies against prevalent microorganisms...just my observation :)

irishcutt
April 1st, 2011, 09:23 PM
you can take some blank CD's and drill a small hole in them and hang them from trees around the yard. They will twirl in the breeze and this diorientates the hawks and some other prey. I have used tin pie pans but they will eventually tear and blow off the strings. But they do work for a period.

fulldrop
April 1st, 2011, 09:46 PM
you can take some blank CD's and drill a small hole in them and hang them from trees around the yard. They will twirl in the breeze and this diorientates the hawks and some other prey. I have used tin pie pans but they will eventually tear and blow off the strings. But they do work for a period.
irishcutt do you have any ideals for me about how to detour the owls or anyone else, I would appreciate any subjection to help with this problem.I know what I like to use, but I just got out of court for that and can't aford that to many time. what about wind chimes does anyone think that would help.

GalloNC
April 29th, 2011, 01:58 AM
Does anyone know which breedersin the U.S sell baby chicks??

GalloNC
April 29th, 2011, 10:51 AM
Can anyone help plz??? Thanks in advance

JCollins
April 29th, 2011, 10:54 AM
Rambler Farms they got the pinnons

UNDERGROUNDPERF
April 29th, 2011, 11:09 AM
Does google search for day old to 1 month old chicks game fowl show fowl then find out if they are crooks before even speaking to them.

californiafowl
April 29th, 2011, 11:15 AM
rambler sells chicks.....yfis -cali

Nayarit4
April 29th, 2011, 12:02 PM
get the gamecock magazine, there you'll find a few farms that sell baby chicks. Good luck.

GalloNC
April 29th, 2011, 12:04 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll give rambler farm a call

GalloNC
May 2nd, 2011, 07:15 AM
Rambler farm is sold out on baby chicks, any other farms that have baby chicks for sale??

californiafowl
May 2nd, 2011, 07:29 AM
rockytop ........ yfis -cali

LongviewGameFar
May 2nd, 2011, 10:25 AM
i have chicks for sale....i ship mondays and tuesdays...overnight delivery...i pay shipping...$120 per 15 chicks

lam ang
May 2nd, 2011, 10:39 AM
if you're in los angeles ca pm me,i have 21/2month romero albany they come spangle also leiperhatch/asil cross.

Gallos Pulquin
May 5th, 2011, 02:13 PM
Hello;

We at pulquin gamefarm have month old chicks. They are 50 dollars each plus shipping within the united states

Check us out at http://www.gallospulquin.com


Sweater
Kelso
Round Head
Hatch
Joe Goode Greys

Rogelio Monzon
May 13th, 2011, 12:47 PM
friends how can i make my baby chicks grow really fast..i give them chick started...but i seen 6 month stags who look like grown cocks...how can i acomplish this...thank you all....and God bless you

gamecock789
May 13th, 2011, 12:53 PM
I peronally would let them grow at their own rate and speed you might have better luck with them that's just my opinon I started with the chick starter and now switched to the grower/devolper I believe its called wich is for my older chicks at about 3 months I mix i t with gamecock base mix feed

ramapomtngamefarm
May 13th, 2011, 12:55 PM
i give mine hard boiled eggs along with there chick feed every day.the eggs are loaded with protien that chicks need to grow.also add vitamins to there water 3 times a week and make sure they have plenty of room to move a fly around.this aides in there muscle growth.

point remove
May 13th, 2011, 12:57 PM
Feed the highest protein chick starter you can find. 33% turkey grower will get them growing fast but I don't recommend this. I personally like about 22% medicated starter grower. I would be afraid of what their bone structure would be like at fast growing.

gallohombre
May 13th, 2011, 01:14 PM
mix cotton seed meal with ur chick starter 50/50 they wil grow super fast but be sure to keep lots of water for them to drink and the need lots of grass too

CorreaGameFarm
May 13th, 2011, 01:16 PM
I use turkey starter all the way to about six months but at about 2 months i put a lil bit of soaked oats they seem to really like it but a few day of the week i give them fresh fruits lil papayas and mangos and after 6 months i slowly mix in my gamebird mix with the turkey starter till they get used to the new feed

Kumuldurog
May 13th, 2011, 01:23 PM
Mix 1tbsp of cherifer to a 1 liter water, this is a vitamin supplement for kids. It has something in it that will make your chicks grow.

gurkhawarrior
May 13th, 2011, 01:45 PM
i let mine roam around with mother hen... i noticed they dont grow fast but they mature earlier. They may not be as robust as those with lights at night (and can eat) but i noticed they are quicker and move faster...

just my observation of my hen-hatched and hen-brood chicks :)

...i can be wrong, though

romy 3388
May 13th, 2011, 05:04 PM
friends how can i make my baby chicks grow really fast..i give them chick started...but i seen 6 month stags who look like grown cocks...how can i acomplish this...thank you all....and god bless you


1day up to 2 month old babay chick crumble thats right
and keep the feeds 3 x a day . 2 month to 6 month stag
grower developer 3 x a day ......
Good luck.

LRSL527
May 13th, 2011, 06:16 PM
I peronally would let them grow at their own rate and speed you might have better luck with them that's just my opinon I started with the chick starter and now switched to the grower/devolper I believe its called wich is for my older chicks at about 3 months I mix i t with gamecock base mix feed

I agree,making them grow fast can lead to deformities and besides height is dictated by genetics,you can't make them any taller than their genes tells them to.

Good bloodlines,good stationed brood materials and right nutrients for growing chicks will set you on your way to success.

towerpower
May 13th, 2011, 06:38 PM
-start with early maturing fowls.
-feed them with good quality chick booster and starter feeds, and gradually change to developer feeds at the recommended age of the feed manufacturer.
-I find that giving them a snack of boiled eggs plus cooked rice at the middle of the day, makes them grow faster and healthier.
-at earlier stages of the stags, feed should be given ad libitum.
-Cherifer is one of the best supplements in my opinion
-healthier chicks grow faster, thus, proper vaccination should also be practiced

Just my two cents =)

regards,

Tp

Camarines
May 13th, 2011, 07:27 PM
Dig a hole three feet in diameter in the cluck's run and one foot or two deep. When the chick's are coming out, fill the hole with fresh stable manure, preferably from horses. As in larger towns, horses are becoming scarce you may fill the hole with chaff or short cut straw. Dampen the straw with water and any sweet. Sugar, molasses, milk, etc. Let the chicks have access to this mine, and do not worry about what becomes of the worms therein. They generally mean rapid growth in your chicks. Observe you chicks in the garden as we have. They sometimes find a nest of any little vermin. You marvel they are digging at, and you cannot see anything. Open your chick's crop and you will find them partially filled with little worms and eggs, scarcely discernible under the magnifying glass. From Mr. Carlos A. Finsterbusch book.

sucess gamefarm
May 13th, 2011, 10:35 PM
my friend told me he uses a hard boil egg white only with there feed one day. then a raw egg the next he said they grow super fast but the bone strucure is weak but they will look like cocks as stags. I just let them grow I dont see no reason to rush there growth unless youre a seller wich i am not. But i do use baby ceareal mixed with egg white once every 4 days as a treat. But the best way to see them grow and mature fast is free rang youre chickins

CrowsNestFarm
May 13th, 2011, 10:46 PM
Just feed them right and let them grow at their own rate. like some have said, excelling their growth may lead to bone problems, and other things.

Hotcocker
May 14th, 2011, 01:31 AM
Feed the highest protein chick starter you can find. 33% turkey grower will get them growing fast but I don't recommend this. I personally like about 22% medicated starter grower. I would be afraid of what their bone structure would be like at fast growing.


lots and lots of broken legs.. better to let them grow slow, 10% maybe a lil more is fine.

Nayarit4
May 14th, 2011, 03:41 AM
In Mexico one of the best feeds available is Purina and they have a 28% "startina plus" which they formulate specificly for baby game chicks... I feed that with a little fishmeal and oystershell mixed in it... When they are about two months or so we gradually change their feed to "Purina Entrepelea" (maintenance feed) again formulated for gamefowl with 17% protein. Chicks are looking nice and healthy...

Keep in mind that some breeds mature faster than others.

sucess gamefarm
May 14th, 2011, 04:06 AM
youre acting like foster Farms 3 month 6 pounders

lurena
May 14th, 2011, 05:09 AM
Slow maturing birds is the way to go. Use too much protein in the diet and your birds will have problems in the future. Use hard boiled eggs mixed with their feed. But don't use too much protein. The slower the growing process the better. That way your birds grow strong bones and ligaments.

MONGOOSE
May 14th, 2011, 11:11 AM
Get fowl from breeders who breed for stag show fowl. Thats the best way to do it. If you give high protein to birds that just aren't meant to develop fast you just end up with big birds with problems such as what hot cocker talked about among other things. Just my opinion.

El ace
May 14th, 2011, 12:51 PM
If you have them free put some feeders here and there some filled with chick starter and some with chopped corn soaked in milk a buddy of my grandpa used to do this and his birds would look like mature cocks at 6 months. Just let them grow at there own rate my grandpas buddy let them roam free as soon as they had 2 months old until they started chasing the pullets around just my opinion also he would feed them hard boil eggs every 3 days

surfer808
May 14th, 2011, 01:58 PM
i dont know if it made dem grow faster but when it was available my uncle an friends used to give renosol tablets. u could tell the difference between stags on renosl and stags dat wasnt

Nayarit4
May 14th, 2011, 11:44 PM
A guy from this site made a very good point once...He pointed out that chicks when free ranged get way more protein than what they need or what's "recommended" from bugs, worms, etc. and they grow healthy...

blackdeath
May 15th, 2011, 12:29 AM
prolonged slow growth is desirable in growing young stock. flesh and fat can be acquired in a relatively short period of time, but strong bone development, strong ligaments and sinews require time. don't try to hurry them. the longer you can keep young stock growing, the tougher and stronger their bone and sinew structure will be at maturity.
~Narragansett

gamecock789
May 15th, 2011, 02:16 AM
A guy from this site made a very good point once...He pointed out that chicks when free ranged get way more protein than what they need or what's "recommended" from bugs, worms, etc. and they grow healthy...

That's right mine free rang pretty much until they start fighting had an inscedent Monday night with a neighbor dog got one but the chcick survuved idk how but they are strong birds

gurkhawarrior
May 15th, 2011, 03:03 AM
all animals have basic instincts to get what they need. This is the reason why we survived and evolved through time. When we need water we feel it (thirst) and when we need energy we also feel it (hunger). Fowls will instinctively include grit in their diet to aid digestion. Taking it from there isn't it logical to expect that chicks and mother hens also know what nutrients they need and thus get them from their habitat? Say, the chicks need more calcium for bone development, instincts will lead them to where they can sate this need. Hens may eat their eggs to correct calcium imbalance, etc. Perhaps this also explains why chickens are not exclusively vegetarians because the need other nutrients from insects and bugs etc.

The problem I see with cooping the chickens is that we cannot be certain if we are giving them what they really need. We merely assume that we are giving them enough or what they need because we often use their growth rate a yardstick for healthy chickens. But then again we can never be sure. They may grow very fast but it does not necessarily follow that they are healthy (they may be obese if there is such thing in chickens :))
So, wouldn't it be wiser if we let them fend for themselves? grains and crumbles may do good if used only as supplementary feeds and not as sole and only food for them? I think nature is a better feeder and breeder than all of us:)

Again, this is just my observation and i can be wrong.

www.gurkhawarrior.multiply.com

Guamasil
May 15th, 2011, 08:38 AM
Feed the highest protein chick starter you can find. 33% turkey grower will get them growing fast but I don't recommend this. I personally like about 22% medicated starter grower. I would be afraid of what their bone structure would be like at fast growing.

I think you are right about bone structure. I've noticed that there is a higher risk of broken bones when forcing them to grow fast. They don't seem to be as agile and quick as well, probably because the bone and muscle development are not proportionate.
I have resorted to letting mother nature run its course. The hens and newly hatched chicks are on free range from day 1. They have access to what mother nature gives them and the yard feed come feeding time. If they cannot adapt to the type of environment I have they are not worth keeping.

unico
May 15th, 2011, 10:37 AM
"how to make baby chicks grow fast"

WHY????:confused:

Nayarit4
May 18th, 2011, 03:15 AM
Wondering if the experienced would share with us –beginners- their method and tips of raising top notch healthy chicks since they hatch until they get penned… Anything such as:

Incubating and brooders
At what age do they turn them loose in the free-range
Feed at different ages
Vitamins and anything to prevent sickness
Stress management (specially when penning)
etc. etc. etc.

Thanks in advance.

striker03
May 18th, 2011, 03:40 AM
I use gatorade for electrolytes.. Starter and grower untill 6 months.. I pen about 4 to 5 months

YoungGun
May 18th, 2011, 03:49 AM
Ok being a newb i have a question that fits this thread. I have some chicks that are a week old than the others. is it ok to put them together or will the week olders pick on the others. Im talking one week and 1 day chicks. Thanks in advance! Also mr striler what age should i start adding reguler feed to the starter grower?

trigger
May 18th, 2011, 03:52 AM
I was told one good thing to do is regularly clean the water cans with clorox I started doing that this year and luckily had no problems with cocci

striker03
May 18th, 2011, 04:04 AM
Also cut the wings.. When they try to fly they'll become stronger.. By the time they are grown they'll be stronger for more exercise in which took place over the weeks the wings grew back

point remove
May 18th, 2011, 06:40 AM
I raise all my chicks under wire from day one I take them from the hens so I can set the hen back. I use sulmet and corid and bleach to clean everything several times for the first 4 weeks then I turn them out into a large pen. and start giving them vitamins and electrolytes every few days and feed them boiled eggs also fruits and veggies when available constantly culling any sick chicks. The last part of this I think is the most important in preventing spread of sickness. Only when I have raised all I can put in my pens do I start turning them lose on a farm walk I know that farm walk chickens are better but I like being able to keep an eye on them and able to medicate them as a group.

blaket4
May 18th, 2011, 08:30 AM
I just had a chet hen hatch nine pure blood chets their three days old and looking very good

blaket4
May 18th, 2011, 08:36 AM
I just had a chet hen hatch nine pure blood chets their three days old and looking very good

BlackhammerFarm
May 18th, 2011, 09:26 AM
I start early hatching in late Decemmber. I use a incubator until March, then I'll let the hens do my last hatchings until first of May then I am done. When incubated chicks are hatched they stay in my house, because our winters here are horrible. They stay in the house for 2 weeks, then to outside to a brooder, off of the ground for 6 weeks, then to a big pen on the ground until there about 4 months old, then they get turned loose. When they hit the ground from the brooder that is when I start my cocci prevention.
When there in the house to the brooder they get, vitamins/electrolytes, terramycin, and bleech water.

blades61
May 18th, 2011, 09:51 AM
just checked a bruner hen that was due to come off tomorrow.had 16 half carr albany half bruner eggs under her.got 15 little chocolates 1 egg still under her.

blaket4
May 18th, 2011, 10:03 AM
We don't use an incubator we let the hen do her natural thing she had nine eggs that turned out nine little chets I'd like to get in touch with someone who knows about chets we usually raise gilmore hatch so were going toward them and chets now our gilmore hatch is also laying but we don't know whatl happen yet hopefully they'll hatch soon

LongviewGameFar
May 18th, 2011, 12:10 PM
i use incubators on this farm..first thing out of the hatcher we vacinate for merecks every chick as soon as i touch them..then mark them ( i use a toe punch )...then to the brooders which the floor has been lined with paper for the first few days...feed sacks work great..use all the layers of the feed sack which will allow you to pull the top layer off in 2 days and give you a clean floor for the next 2 days.. there is water w/ LS-50 waiting on them ..(1 quart chick waters work the best)..LS-50 should be given for the first 7 days...it is a must do...there is no need for vitamins and electrolites...you will not have sick or sluggish acting chicks...if you use LS-50....it is well worth the money spent....the baby chick feed for the first 3 days should be non-medicated(co-op carries it) as this allows the baby to build a natural immunity to coccidiosis..use medicated chick starter after the 3 days ....have boiled eggs crumbled up spread on the paper and in the chick feeder as this will help them find the feed quicker..we use boiled eggs for the first 3 days...when you put your chick in the brooder dip his bill in the water one time...he will know then where to find the water...we raise in the brooders for 1 month before we release on free range....the day before you are planning on turning out...run LS-50 in the water....after they have been turned out for a few weeks you will need to worm them with piperzine and then a few weeks later use sulmet in their water....hope this helps....its just a few basic things that get the chicks off to a great start....health is key...another quick note....the vitamins and antibiotics should be used in the brood fowls water while they are laying the eggs...this increases the hatchablity and makes the chick strong straight out of the shell....FIS

Sugarcreek
May 18th, 2011, 12:30 PM
We havent lost a chick this year and we have even had some low in the 40's. I think the key has been we have kept them on fresh bedding...

We use stock water tanks for the first two weeks with lights and used the grow jell from Randle burkey. First few days. I dont know if this had a major factor compared to years past but I am becoming a believer.

Picture of biddies
http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/IMG00498-20110503-0558.jpg (http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/IMG00498-20110503-0558.jpg)

We wanted to keep them under varmit protection until they get at least 6 inches so this is a pen we designed. The netting is some kind of plastic or nylon. They are actually aftermarket gazbeo screens. What we like about them is they come in 10' section and zip up at each length. We have plans to use cable for the next one to hold them under roof a little longer... Then out to a 100x50 pheasant run pen. Not constructed yet.

We dont have much problems with hawks but the crows love these little chicks. They come in flocks and grab everyone they can catch. So we are trying to give them a better chance before we just free range them.

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/Chickpen.jpg (http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/Chickpen.jpg)

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/chickpencloseup.jpg (http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/chickpencloseup.jpg)

MaxFly
May 18th, 2011, 02:32 PM
When the biddies are born, make sure you give then (homemade) probiotics all thier life. And this is proven thru expercience, better yet ask Supermax, he deserve the credit.

Nayarit4
May 19th, 2011, 09:53 AM
We are hatching the majority in incubators, keep them in the brooder until one month of age, put them in a big pen till about three month and turn them loose. We are feeding a good high protein stater with a little fishmeal and oyster shell mixed in... give them vits and electrolites with terramicin 10 twice a week and worm with wazine once a month... They are looking good.

Here are a few that are ready for the free range.

fish590a
May 19th, 2011, 10:28 AM
We are hatching the majority in incubators, keep them in the brooder until one month of age, put them in a big pen till about three month and turn them loose. We are feeding a good high protein stater with a little fishmeal and oyster shell mixed in... give them vits and electrolites with terramicin 10 twice a week and worm with wazine once a month... They are looking good.

Here are a few that are ready for the free range.

Looking good bud! :cool:

YoungGun
May 19th, 2011, 12:19 PM
We havent lost a chick this year and we have even had some low in the 40's. I think the key has been we have kept them on fresh bedding...

We use stock water tanks for the first two weeks with lights and used the grow jell from Randle burkey. First few days. I dont know if this had a major factor compared to years past but I am becoming a believer.

Picture of biddies
http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/IMG00498-20110503-0558.jpg (http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/IMG00498-20110503-0558.jpg)

We wanted to keep them under varmit protection until they get at least 6 inches so this is a pen we designed. The netting is some kind of plastic or nylon. They are actually aftermarket gazbeo screens. What we like about them is they come in 10' section and zip up at each length. We have plans to use cable for the next one to hold them under roof a little longer... Then out to a 100x50 pheasant run pen. Not constructed yet.

We dont have much problems with hawks but the crows love these little chicks. They come in flocks and grab everyone they can catch. So we are trying to give them a better chance before we just free range them.

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/Chickpen.jpg (http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/Chickpen.jpg)

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/chickpencloseup.jpg (http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/Sugarcreekfarms/chickpencloseup.jpg)


Great looking setup bud i really like that!!!

Nayarit4
May 20th, 2011, 04:05 AM
Looking good bud! :cool:

Thanks man, they are looking very good, we just turned them loose so they will probably look much better in a few weeks. Did you finished watching the golden rooster dvds yet?

Nayarit4
May 20th, 2011, 11:45 PM
Has anybody used heated mat for pets as a heat source instead of a heat lamp for their chicks?

Rogelio Monzon
June 4th, 2011, 12:51 PM
up up up up pup up uupup.................

BamaOkie
June 4th, 2011, 04:09 PM
prolonged slow growth is desirable in growing young stock. flesh and fat can be acquired in a relatively short period of time, but strong bone development, strong ligaments and sinews require time. don't try to hurry them. the longer you can keep young stock growing, the tougher and stronger their bone and sinew structure will be at maturity.
~Narragansett

I agree 100% with this method. Slow & strong!

coyoacan
June 4th, 2011, 09:38 PM
I feed my chickens twice a day there about 4-6 months old,1/2 hen scratch 1/2 chicks starer and 3/4 soaked oats,I change the water 3 times a day and I add some vitamins twice a week I also dewormed them every month until they're ready to be put up. My question to you guys is, why do my birds still have a pale face? Do I need to add some medication to this program? Please help!!!!!!!!

coyoacan
June 5th, 2011, 08:21 AM
I feed my chickens twice a day there about 4-6 months old,1/2 hen scratch 1/2 chicks starer and 3/4 soaked oats,I change the water 3 times a day and I add some vitamins twice a week I also dewormed them every month until they're ready to be put up. My question to you guys is, why do my birds still have a pale face? Do I need to add some medication to this program? Please help!!!!!!!!

Reds & Greys
June 5th, 2011, 08:39 AM
If your birds are still pale then give them some horse $hit they love it and the nitrogen in it will get thier heads nice and red and/or add a littel RedCell to thier diet that will also help. Best of luck

Mike Everett
June 5th, 2011, 10:37 AM
What you guys don't understand unless you have been there is how the Philippine gamefowl industry is setup. They are pushing the envelope to develop early fast growing, mature stags to be able to fight in their banded stag derbies. They must be hatched by a certain time to be eligible to fight. They are looking for a marketable product that can produce winning results in a accelerated rate. I believe this is what he is asking advice about. A gentleman I know has got it down to a science, one part of it is feeding every 2 hrs during the day, small amounts of high protein more frequently, along with his own mix of vitamins and minerals. They are free ranged on a mountain and tend with loving care, from egg to harvest time. Of course the selection of the correct genetic material is a must also...

ELITE808EDGE
June 5th, 2011, 04:02 PM
i feed turkey starter for the first month and half turkey starter half chick starter from the second n third month and 4th month i only use chick starter and i mix nutri drench and vital to my water and never did i get a broken bone or weak bones on my stags ..

Rogelio Monzon
June 5th, 2011, 11:32 PM
upu pupupupupupupupu......................

808hayn
July 24th, 2011, 04:42 AM
Does all summer hatched chicks come out small n short station?

mclean2
July 24th, 2011, 05:17 AM
the ones i've hatched didn't

Roberts44903
July 24th, 2011, 05:22 AM
If they come short station that is from your broodpens man. If they come small is cause they are not getting proper feed. I hatch as long as my hens keep laying. I got 1 hen sitting now and 3 more laying. No such thing as late hatch if ya know how to care for them.

Hotcocker
July 24th, 2011, 05:24 AM
I tried to hatch late this year for pullets but this god awfull heatwave we have going is not making it easy, seems like no matter how much water i spray, or how much wet feed i give them i still lose several chicks a day due to heat.

Kelso_777
July 24th, 2011, 05:49 AM
I think our summer weather here does affect my late hatched chicks. It's gets to 110degrees nd they jst don't grow the right way. Me nd my bro each hatched chicks in the same wk. After 2 wks I took mine outside. My bro kept his in a cool room nd his are almost double the size of mine.

808hayn
July 24th, 2011, 06:13 AM
Thanks for the info guys but how n wen do I vaccinate my chicks ?

McDaddyMcrae808
July 24th, 2011, 08:40 AM
In Hawaii its no problem at all to breed late, you can breed all year long as long as your brood stock is healthy, I still am breeding alot and besides its not as hot as the maineland.

delano77
July 24th, 2011, 10:03 AM
Only one season for me and thats early spring for me here in Cali.
Give me a March hatched stag as opposed to one in July anyday. Plus, I dont like a 6 month difference in the young stuff free ranging.

Roberts44903
July 24th, 2011, 10:09 AM
I tried to hatch late this year for pullets but this god awfull heatwave we have going is not making it easy, seems like no matter how much water i spray, or how much wet feed i give them i still lose several chicks a day due to heat.

Are you giving vitamins and electrolytes daily? Are the young fowl able to get to water? Are they running loose or in a brooder? What are you feeding them?

Do not feel bad we been getting same heatwave up here in Ohio. Supposed to continue for us into next week.

gladiator
July 24th, 2011, 10:18 AM
Chicks raised later in the year seem to b more vulnerable to diseases and don't do too well in hot weather. I prefer to hatch out birds from middle of march to end of april. I as well don't care to have a big gap in ages between chicks. If I raise them in these months, I don't normally have to pen up in hot weather.
JMHO

Hotcocker
July 24th, 2011, 11:26 AM
Are you giving vitamins and electrolytes daily? Are the young fowl able to get to water? Are they running loose or in a brooder? What are you feeding them?

Do not feel bad we been getting same heatwave up here in Ohio. Supposed to continue for us into next week.


right now the month old and less is with their moms, plenty of water, all had a round of ls-50, and vitamins their first few days, they are loose, on the starter, and ground up scratch mixed, same as I do all my biddies this year. I even been feeding the whole yard soaked white bread during the heat to help them out, so they have choice of that if they want it also.

maniacmanook808
July 25th, 2011, 11:33 AM
plant lots of fruit trees it helps alot...4 da survival

kawika
July 25th, 2011, 11:53 AM
i guess u could say, lucky we live hawaii

Roberts44903
July 25th, 2011, 01:01 PM
right now the month old and less is with their moms, plenty of water, all had a round of ls-50, and vitamins their first few days, they are loose, on the starter, and ground up scratch mixed, same as I do all my biddies this year. I even been feeding the whole yard soaked white bread during the heat to help them out, so they have choice of that if they want it also.

I have mine in brooder right now they are couple weeks old. They get a waterier full of vitamins and electrolytes and medicated chick starter. I use a 60 watt regular house bulb. I have no clue what the ls-50 is for never used it. Maybe with all the humidity and spraying the water could mess them little guys up running. I go by old saying if young chick gets wet it is dead. Especially if the momma will not wait up for them going through the high weeds.

sucess gamefarm
July 25th, 2011, 01:14 PM
My cousin used to raised lots of fowl and would get these late hatched chicks that where 18 months but looked like they where 8 month old.spurs where small and everthing we would hack them against stags and never lost one. They were bred and fed the same as ever other.

R TORRES
July 25th, 2011, 01:37 PM
Try breed one pair and get a batch off in Janurary or Feb. and get biddies off the same pair in June or July .

you will see a difference trust me .

boonatz808
July 25th, 2011, 01:44 PM
I got a stag that was born in the summer last year and he
is the same size as my 4month old stags born in march

Hotcocker
July 25th, 2011, 04:59 PM
I have mine in brooder right now they are couple weeks old. They get a waterier full of vitamins and electrolytes and medicated chick starter. I use a 60 watt regular house bulb. I have no clue what the ls-50 is for never used it. Maybe with all the humidity and spraying the water could mess them little guys up running. I go by old saying if young chick gets wet it is dead. Especially if the momma will not wait up for them going through the high weeds.


ii moistin their ground they are in a run pen... i dont soak the biddies or nothing crazy.. yea then theyd be doomed.. i gunna try and get yound off in sept or october, and gettem big in pole barn with lil heat and sun lighted roof.. so i can have like a greenhouse for chicks.. and gettem good grass sprouting, and keepem worm, and instal a few work bed so they can really get caught up and eat wild in winter months.

The Mobster
September 4th, 2011, 04:06 PM
Are you using crumbles like Sagupaan Chick Booster? What about wheatgerm?

bongped
September 4th, 2011, 04:18 PM
I've been using TB chick booster for 1-31 days and switch to TB stag developer until harvest say like 5 1/2 - 7months at 4months onward i throw some crack corn to familiarize them with kernels. Im quite satisfied with TB never tried other brands though. Anyone using same as mine?









TB-Thunderbird

Butch93
September 4th, 2011, 04:31 PM
Chick starter then give them boiled eggs, fruits and vegi's. About 2 months i start throwing my regular feed and grit in there pen to get them used to seed. At 3 montys i cut them loose on the yard and leave a bucket of chick start on the yard and throw gamecock mix and fruits and vegi's out on the yard for them then when they cock up ajd i have to pen them they get gamecock mix with layer pellets added oyster shell and grit then at a year there on same as the cocks. When they run loose when there young they get bugs grass and all the things that mother nature provides.
Yfis
Mark

don128
September 4th, 2011, 07:32 PM
Chick starter then give them boiled eggs, fruits and vegi's. About 2 months i start throwing my regular feed and grit in there pen to get them used to seed. At 3 montys i cut them loose on the yard and leave a bucket of chick start on the yard and throw gamecock mix and fruits and vegi's out on the yard for them then when they cock up ajd i have to pen them they get gamecock mix with layer pellets added oyster shell and grit then at a year there on same as the cocks. When they run loose when there young they get bugs grass and all the things that mother nature provides.
Yfis
Mark


I do the same feed and method and they are always very healthy. The chick starter is really great stuff.

blades61
September 4th, 2011, 10:12 PM
i use purina chick starter mixed with purina turkey starter.boiled eggs also.

sisiw
September 4th, 2011, 10:19 PM
I tried various feeds before but I prefer Powerbullets Armado for 1-30days chicks.

Bill_Gates
September 5th, 2011, 12:42 AM
ThunderBird Chick Booster up to a month, then follow up with ThunderBird Stag Developer. Put in Vetracin Premium, Vetracin Gold and Electrogen D+ in their drinking water alternately every three days. That is three days with soluble mix then 3 days plain water.

Stags are more taller, alert and healthier. :cool:

Roberts44903
September 5th, 2011, 01:22 AM
ThunderBird Chick Booster up to a month, then follow up with ThunderBird Stag Developer. Put in Vetracin Premium, Vetracin Gold and Electrogen D+ in their drinking water alternately every three days. That is three days with soluble mix then 3 days plain water.

Stags are more taller, alert and healthier. :cool:

If I understand you right the feed can change the station of fowl? I think that is what you mean by taller. Correct if I am wrong.

Gamecocker91
September 5th, 2011, 01:41 AM
i use chick starter and gamecock at the same time, let them eat both, cause of the hen in there with them, they like both,they are always running free at all times till penning age or whenever they start teasing the cocks in the pens, then its time to lockem up lol

coyoacan
September 5th, 2011, 01:59 AM
I start with chick starter for 2 months, than I mix 1/2 chick starter and 1/2 hen scratch until 5 months old after that I start switching to gamecock and soaked oats, I like to add water to the feed until I switch to the gamecock feed they like it better.

IceBen
September 5th, 2011, 02:20 AM
i use gamebird starter 30%cp day 1 to 30, then gradually switching them to 50% gamebird starter 30%cp 25% gamebird 20%cp and 25% scratch. once a week i also mix their feeds with diatomaesous earth powder. i do wet feeding :)

Outlaw greys
September 5th, 2011, 08:39 AM
I use chick starter and start giveing them soaked oats mixed with my normal yard feedthe soaked oats really keep them healthy

Bill_Gates
September 8th, 2011, 12:34 AM
If I understand you right the feed can change the station of fowl? I think that is what you mean by taller. Correct if I am wrong.

It sounds like an ads, but that's what it does. There are some "noticeable" results using with some brand/s of feeds.

laguardia
September 8th, 2011, 01:28 AM
A couple of weeks of chick starter mix with regular own mix of ground grains(corn, soy bean, oates, rice, sorghum, wheat, vitamins, depends on what´s available) and after that my own mix all the way. They will peck the small stuff and leave the bigger grains to the hen. I do not know why but they love soaked oates more than the adult fowl, they go insane.

Roberts44903
September 8th, 2011, 05:57 AM
It sounds like an ads, but that's what it does. There are some "noticeable" results using with some brand/s of feeds.

Maybe you should try same breed out of same brood pen and try 2 different feeds. I highly doubt one feed with make a bird have a higher station.

Butch93
September 8th, 2011, 06:05 AM
Ya i dont think it can affect station but if the protien is to high that can cause problems just like it does in broiler chickens. They grow to fast which caused issue and even seen birds with brittle bones because of it. 22% protien is more than plenty. Just like ive found turkey start is to high in medication and as soon as you switch them off of it alot become sickly. Just been my experiances or things that have happened to friends.
Yfis
Mark

sisiw
September 8th, 2011, 06:39 AM
ThunderBird Chick Booster up to a month, then follow up with ThunderBird Stag Developer. Put in Vetracin Premium, Vetracin Gold and Electrogen D+ in their drinking water alternately every three days. That is three days with soluble mix then 3 days plain water.

Stags are more taller, alert and healthier. :cool:


If I understand you right the feed can change the station of fowl? I think that is what you mean by taller. Correct if I am wrong.


Maybe you should try same breed out of same brood pen and try 2 different feeds. I highly doubt one feed with make a bird have a higher station.

Perhaps what Bill_Gates wanted to say is that the stags can grow to its full potential.

My friend and I purchased a full-brother, same batch stags. We are using different brand of feeds. After a month or two, my stag is taller, bigger (but light), and more mature than his stag.

Roberts44903
September 8th, 2011, 07:43 AM
Perhaps what Bill_Gates wanted to say is that the stags can grow to its full potential.

My friend and I purchased a full-brother, same batch stags. We are using different brand of feeds. After a month or two, my stag is taller, bigger (but light), and more mature than his stag.

I am curious was these crossed stags? If not long has the guy had them set as a family? Do all the birds of this family look alike?

Some of this can be contributed to ground, water, feed and care. I know my Murphys in my hands come low 4s. In the NE where I got them they are mid 4s to 5. Out on the west coast they are over 5lbs.

cito358
November 23rd, 2011, 01:52 AM
Sir,
Can you please recommend where can we find complete writing or book in step by step details from the mentioned below. tnx so much.


2. Good Health and Nutrition - giving our broodcock and broodhen proper layer feed ration and necessary multivitamins and minerals for egg production. Breeders are fed energy giving diets and nutrients to optimize egg production. Maternal nutrients are transfered to the chick embryo thru the yolk of an egg. Developing embryos inside the yolk gets nutrients from the albumen of the egg.
4. Handling and Storage of eggs Before Incubation - selection and care of eggs before setting in the incubator.



.[/QUOTE]

kennedy
November 23rd, 2011, 03:42 AM
up up up up up up up up up up up up

Powerade
November 23rd, 2011, 10:55 AM
Make sure you have a good quality Brodstock

arlan82
November 23rd, 2011, 11:20 AM
[A lot of factors affect the production of uniform, quality and vigorous gamefowl chicks. Proper management practices starting from: BREEDING, GOOD HEALTH and NUTRITION, LINE SELECTION, HANDLING and STORAGE of EGGS BEFORE INCUBATION and PROPER INCUBATION and HATCHERY MANAGEMENT.

1. Breeding - preparing the broodfowls for the breeding season
2. Good Health and Nutrition - giving our broodcock and broodhen proper layer feed ration and necessary multivitamins and minerals for egg production. Breeders are fed energy giving diets and nutrients to optimize egg production. Maternal nutrients are transfered to the chick embryo thru the yolk of an egg. Developing embryos inside the yolk gets nutrients from the albumen of the egg.
3. Line Selection - choosing the right broodcock and broodhen to be mated as desired upon.
4. Handling and Storage of eggs Before Incubation - selection and care of eggs before setting in the incubator.

Breeding, Good Health and Nutrition, Line Selection and Proper Handling and Storage of Eggs are the first four important factors in order to PRODUCE VIABLE EGGS necessary to attain and maintain HIGH FERTILITY levels of eggs for quality chick production. At this stage, the genetic traits of the egg is already set upon fertilization. Next is for egg to be handled and stored properly in order to maintain fertility until ready to be set for incubation.

Considering a viable egg is produced, it is now very important to have:

5. Proper Incubation and Hatchery Management - Incubation is a heat related (or temperature dependent) process that determines the quality and vitality of day-old chicks. The hatchability of incubated fertile egg depends upon the method of incubation (natural/hen or incubator) by which the biological needs of fertile developing embryo is being supplied with. The biological needs of the developing embryo of a fertile egg are as follows in the order of their importance: (1)temperature, (2) relative humidity, (3) correct ventilation and, (4) turning of eggs. For an incubator to attain high levels of hatchabiltiy, it must have the right design and technology to meet those four important incubation factors.



Sir,
May katagalan narin po itong thread na sinimulan nyo...
Interested po sana ako incubatoy nto khit yung 100 capacity lang po
I preferred po yung automatic po sana... PM nyo nlang po ako sa email ko
Sir. arlan_fillejera@yahoo.com if magkano po ang price...
Maraming slamat po...

regards,
Arlan

WhiteMane
January 21st, 2012, 03:46 PM
Hey guys I'm just wondering if your incubating eggs what do u feed newly hatch chicks? I hear you could feed the purina mills starter. Is that true?

OR GALLO
January 21st, 2012, 04:06 PM
That should be fine, and if you want you can buy the medicated chick starter also.

WhiteMane
January 21st, 2012, 04:18 PM
Yeah I've been looking for that can't find it out here. I'm in a really small town in Mexico. So I'm ok with the purina then. Well that's good to know :)

OR GALLO
January 21st, 2012, 04:25 PM
Yes just buy the Purina chick starter, or some other type of crecimiento.

YeY197
January 21st, 2012, 10:37 PM
You should be fine I like to give them hard boiled eggs once a day you can crush it with the shell after a few weeks good source of calcium and animal protein..I also give them Vitamins and electrolytes in the water for the first few weeks if you can find it down there..Apple Cider vinegar will help too.Feed them what they'll eat don't let the old feed pile up and get moldy.

YeY197
January 21st, 2012, 10:54 PM
Mix the boiled egg with the chick starter kinda make almost a mash..I didn't ment feed straight egg just in case you mis interpret..lol

brownred kelso
January 21st, 2012, 11:20 PM
Always liked to start em out on boiled eggs,,,,then corrid crumbles and fresh 5 grain scratch,,,,ran through the grinder,,,,,mixed half and half with ground up puppy chow ,,,,,,,keep water clean and feed AM, clean the feed tray at night,,,fresh feed every morning,,,,,,,add 1oz. of liquid SPECTAM per gallon of water and you will not loose a single chick,,,if the mating were of good health,,,,,,worm every three weeks using ground up Southern States Swine pellets in the 40lbs bag,,when they get feathered over good turn em out to range,,,keeping the feeders in the same area shutting them up at night,,ALL MEDS AND VACINATIONS GIVEN AT NIGHT CAUSES LESS STRESS FOR THE BIRDS,,,THIS SHOULD BE NOTED FOR ALL BIRDS,,THIS WAS HOW I DID IT,,MY ONCE PER DAY METHODS STARTED AS SOON AS THEY WERE HATCHED,,,,BRK

BLACKCROW
January 21st, 2012, 11:53 PM
ya and it will help them if you give them a little sugar in there water a few days

Laborerkennels
January 22nd, 2012, 04:53 AM
I leave the chicks in the bottom tray of the bator for about 24 hours after they hatched out. They dry out nice that way, and get their feet under them so to speak.

Then place them in a brooder. Typically a swimming pool or large rubbermaid tub with a red light over the top. Then put a small waterer with a tiny pinch of vitamin supplement in the tub and dunk each chicks beak in the water so they know where to drink. Then place a handfull of medicated starter on a piece of cardboard and use my index finger and peck at the cardboard and chick starter.

Soon the chicks will start pecking at the food and they are on their way.

I use wood pellets for the litter in the bottom of the brooder.

Out here, the large feed stores have seminars on chick care and they take about an hour.

Good luck.

OR GALLO
January 22nd, 2012, 07:26 AM
Has any of you used that green colored stuff they sell? And I feed boiled eggs to them after a week or two cause when less than that they seem to waste most of it.

lorraine1
January 22nd, 2012, 08:53 AM
brown red kelso is right on,however there is a medication i have found to be better than th e spectam.

deedly
January 22nd, 2012, 09:13 AM
brown red kelso is right on,however there is a medication i have found to be better than th e spectam.
Which medication do you use? Thanks

cody
January 22nd, 2012, 09:47 AM
Medicated starter and a Little sugar in there water seems to get them off on the right foot.

brownred kelso
January 22nd, 2012, 12:55 PM
brown red kelso is right on,however there is a medication i have found to be better than th e spectam.

Was always searching to get better,,,,but has been (3) seasons now since i raised the last ones,,,,i'm sure someone could have found good or better than what i was using,,,but mine won't bad either,,,,,,,BRK

chip001
January 22nd, 2012, 12:57 PM
hello everyone,
im also new to raising chickens. What is the sugar in the water for?

DR. J
January 22nd, 2012, 01:51 PM
hello everyone,
im also new to raising chickens. What is the sugar in the water for?

Same thing like dextrose.

WhiteMane
January 22nd, 2012, 07:07 PM
Thanks forvtha advine guys. Helped me out alot :) is oatmeal good for them to?

deedly
January 22nd, 2012, 07:24 PM
Yes. Mix some oatmeal with the boiled eggs. The chicks love it.

Patiktik
February 17th, 2012, 03:32 PM
I had normal chicks and a few weeks later some are walking around with on the side of their feet. I will post pictures later. Is this breading deficiency?

Small Timer
February 17th, 2012, 04:32 PM
I have never heard of this problem. Inbreeding?

Patiktik
February 18th, 2012, 08:52 AM
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2953076420329&set=a.2952926016569.2133287.1063970410&type=3&theater

Patiktik
February 18th, 2012, 08:54 AM
check the link below for photo

Patiktik
February 18th, 2012, 08:57 AM
http://s1169.photobucket.com/albums/r514/patiktik/?action=view&current=chicks2.jpg

sharp&silver
February 18th, 2012, 09:00 AM
Up up up
Could it be Mareks?

czoid74
February 18th, 2012, 09:08 AM
If they were hatched in a incubator, looks like the temp was to high

Rooster77
February 18th, 2012, 09:10 AM
To me it just looks like bent toes. Was they incubator hatched?

ums94
February 18th, 2012, 09:15 AM
I have 1 stag, his toes are bent inwards. I agree its incubator temperature.

deepriver
February 18th, 2012, 09:27 AM
just common side effects that goes along with early hatched chicks by an incubator , jmo very seldom does hen hatched chicks have crooked toes . my opinion is crooked toes comes from not enough moisture during the entire 21 day incubation period . in my past experiences i have noticed that the first couple of groups that hatch will have more crooked toes than the later groups. reason being in my situation, I am hatching every 4 to 6 days now and moisture will stay very high continuously, results are less crooked toes.

jmo deepriver

ALM3
February 18th, 2012, 05:24 PM
I am not sure why this happens. Everyone seems to blame it on incubators or low humidity. I am not comnvinced that its either but do not have reason as to why but I do have my own theory. The only argument I can offer for it not being incubator issues or humidity is what I have seen. I have raised a lot of chicks from incubators, I mean a lot, and when they first hatch the toes will not appear crooked. It is only over the first few days that the crooked toes will start showing up. I think it has more to do with the brooder enviroment. Slick paper, poor house keeping, heat to high, heat to low, no vitamins, to many vitamins, poor quality of feed, to much protein, etc. I just have no evidence to support this but am just going by my personal experience. I have seen chicks come out of the shell where they were stuck from a low humidity issue and have bent or crooked toes and after a couple of days in the brooder they straighten back up. And the flip side of that have seen it go the other way. I just hatched a group today and was sick over the weekend and wasn't able to get out of the house. My helper forgot to add water to the incubators and both of them ran completely dry and were that way for at least 36 hours. this took place in the 16th & 17th of incubation on the group that just hatched. I added water but was worried when I placed the eggs in the hatcher. All but one hatched and none has bent or crooked toes. So again I say I am not convinced this is a sign of incubation. With chicks hatched under a hen you will not have a possible bad enviroment for them like they could be in when placed in a brooder. this is another reason I look more in that area for this cause. JMHO

hasmidzul_jojo
February 18th, 2012, 05:46 PM
From my experiance,spread temperature on the eggs during incubation period are not the same,permitted with the same humidity.(On the other side of the egg is warm and on the other side is cold.)This can happen on both artificial incubation and hen hatched.It occured on hen incubation when there are too many eggs incubated on a single hen for just like a 17 to 20+ eggs incubate for a single hen.

Well,that was the result of my test and observation.

msei
February 18th, 2012, 07:33 PM
it also can be a riboflavin defiecency some time you can add electrolite high in riboflavin will correct it if that is problem i assume these chicks were fine and developed this later i had same problem and worked for me

Patiktik
February 18th, 2012, 08:41 PM
These 8 chicks were hen hatched. They were fine in the brooder then toes started to curl about 2 1/2 weeks later. The temp reading in the brooder was 88 degrees.

deepriver
February 18th, 2012, 10:59 PM
ALM, ya might be on to something there , my 1st chicks are 22 days old our temps dropped to the teens for a couple of nights and days were low 30 degrees, now that I have pondered your theory, I did not notice crooked toes until after the weather change. I will pay closer attention to this in the future. the only thing is @ this has always bugged me only noticed 3 out of the twenty went crooked toe and it was of both sexs.

overlord
February 19th, 2012, 02:37 AM
I am not sure why this happens. Everyone seems to blame it on incubators or low humidity. I am not comnvinced that its either but do not have reason as to why but I do have my own theory. The only argument I can offer for it not being incubator issues or humidity is what I have seen. I have raised a lot of chicks from incubators, I mean a lot, and when they first hatch the toes will not appear crooked. It is only over the first few days that the crooked toes will start showing up. I think it has more to do with the brooder enviroment. Slick paper, poor house keeping, heat to high, heat to low, no vitamins, to many vitamins, poor quality of feed, to much protein, etc. I just have no evidence to support this but am just going by my personal experience. I have seen chicks come out of the shell where they were stuck from a low humidity issue and have bent or crooked toes and after a couple of days in the brooder they straighten back up. And the flip side of that have seen it go the other way. I just hatched a group today and was sick over the weekend and wasn't able to get out of the house. My helper forgot to add water to the incubators and both of them ran completely dry and were that way for at least 36 hours. this took place in the 16th & 17th of incubation on the group that just hatched. I added water but was worried when I placed the eggs in the hatcher. All but one hatched and none has bent or crooked toes. So again I say I am not convinced this is a sign of incubation. With chicks hatched under a hen you will not have a possible bad enviroment for them like they could be in when placed in a brooder. this is another reason I look more in that area for this cause. JMHO

i think you can rule out high protein because i give my fowls including chicks a high level of protein and do not have the problem, but like everyone else i would like to know the cause.

Patiktik
February 19th, 2012, 06:26 AM
ALM, ya might be on to something there , my 1st chicks are 22 days old our temps dropped to the teens for a couple of nights and days were low 30 degrees, now that I have pondered your theory, I did not notice crooked toes until after the weather change. I will pay closer attention to this in the future. the only thing is @ this has always bugged me only noticed 3 out of the twenty went crooked toe and it was of both sexs.
This is in the Philippines

ALM3
February 19th, 2012, 01:11 PM
I have seen chicks that were hen hatched and raised end up with crooked toes as well. Not sure as to the cause there either. It could be the hen stepped on them and actually broke the toes when the chicks were a little older. Again it could be diet and enviroment issues here as well. Without having the resources to devote the time and effort towards studies to find the exact cause we will all have to use our own judgement to the matter. I just want to reitirate that I do not feel it is a result of artificial incubation or the lack of humidity during the incubation process. All I can offer as evidence is personal experience and my own observations.

jemm65
February 22nd, 2012, 03:36 AM
patiktik most likely this is a brooder problem. try putting the chicks and the hen enclosed on the ground covered with rice husk for a couple of weeks. this is still your brooder but on the ground. that newspaper flooring was never a good idea.

Patiktik
February 22nd, 2012, 09:36 AM
Thank You jemm65 for the tip

L~n~C Combine
February 22nd, 2012, 09:46 AM
I've also heard the theory that if using a commercial type brooder that the wire is too large for newly hatched chicks and their toes will go through it and become crooked. But I've also seen them raised in the same brooderamd be perfectly fine. IDK just thought I would share this though