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Thread: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

  
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    Member OnPoint's Avatar
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    Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    I have noticed that a lot of the threads that have been posted are on keeps and care of gamefowl. I came across the keep while going through some papers and thought I'd share it.

    The Black Hatch Farm ( John & Anna Slavin ) Keep and Care System

    PART ONE: SELECTION AND HEALTH

    The selection of the cocks for training is very important. Your time is valuable and you need to begin with only the healthiest birds available. Good health means a good performance. Your bird must be at the proper fighting weight when he goes into the keep. This weight is determined by your daily feeding habits of your fowl.

    When you have decided upon the birds that are ready for training, wom and delouse them. For lice and mites, we use a mixture of one tablespoon of Malathion, one tablespoon of permethian, and a "dash" of Skin So Soft ( for the oil base to stick to the feathers ) in a gallon of water. Spray thoroughly around the vent, on top of the tail, behind the hackle feathers and under the wings. For worming, we have been using and endorsing Worms-All tablets by Pro Poultry Supply for the last several years. Worms-All is the only product that we have found to get the tape worm out, along with all the other types of worms that fowl are susceptible to.

    The best method of worming a cock is to withhold his feed the previous evening. The following day, skip the morning feed ( if this is part of your regular program), then about mid day or so, put the worm pill down him. About three to four hours later, put your roosters in keep stalls and feed them about a half cup of bread and milk for their evening feed. This will flush them out completely, and at the same time let you observe what is coming out of them. If you opt to feed grain for fowl out on tie cords, only feed about half the normal feed ration. This will prevent the chickens from becoming craw bound. It is also advisable to run copper sulffate at one-half teaspoon per five gallons of water the following day after worming. This will also further the process of cleaning out the roosters.

    Then put your roosters on a T.E.A.M. vitamin water program for the next three days. T.E.A.M. vitamin is made by Fort Dodge laboratories and it is an excellent water-soluble vitamin to use, not only in the keep, but also in regular yard care also. If T.E.A.M. is not available in your area, a good vitamin with electrolytes is recommended. Check your local feed store.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    continuation ..

    Be sure the roosters you have selceted ahve no physical impairments or infections of any type. Check for any ear infections or nasal crustiness. Remember that good health will give you a good fight. With the MG and NS strains of Chronic Respiratory Deseases ( CRD ), it is advisable to spar your roosters to make sure that they are "bubble eye" free. To check for the possibility of "bubble eye" after sparring, hold the rooster's nose and beak shut so that the cannot get his breath. If a foamy and bubbly substance comes out of the corner of either eye, the you must try to control this infection during the keep.

    Chances are great that your flock carries this virus andyou may not know it. Since it is a virus, spreading can occur through the air, so no matter how many methods of disease control you practice on your farm, it will be difficult to avoid the different strains of CRD. The only thing that can be done for CRD, is to try and control the intensity of it in your flock. Currently, Baytril is on the market and is the best medicine there is available. This medication is very expensive, but it is nearly a miracle worker on all types of poultry. You must contact your veterinarian for helping you order it.

    If you have ever witnessed a fight in which a bird may show a strong flurry of hitting and agressiveness, but then after a couple of pitting his is completely exhausted and has no cutting ability or power left whatsoever, then it is a good chance the "bubble eye" has brougtht him down. A rooster has been known to be completly counted out and lose the fight, then after he gets back to the holding stall, within hours he will be up and around. The effect on the bird is a choking sensation, and then, being out of wind, he is unable to perform to the best of his ability. This virus strain is a puzzle to every gamecock breeder and fighter alike. It must be dealt with accordingly. If your roosters have it too severly, you may want to reconsider the show date.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    continuation ..

    Vaccinating with Spectum at one day old is a good beginning to help your fowl down the line. Also, the best prevention of CRD is healthy broodstock, as strains have been traced to be passed from the hen to the egg. On your roosters in the keep, Spectum can also be injected at the ration of 1cc using a diabetic syringe, in the breast muscle every other day for a total of three injections. The best method of controlling "bubble eye" is to use the Baytril in the water soluble form. Run for five days then spar them again. You will see the difference. It is important that you refrain from all medications two days before the day of the show, but we encourage a good source of vitamin water the last two days of the keep.

    When we are training roosters, our main objective is to get them mentall prepared. This is very important. Your roosters should be gentle; handle them as much as possible. Get them used to drop out pens and stalls. Make sure they are happy and content. Don't be afreaid to make noises around them. We play a radio in the cockhouse all the time. The less stress your rooster has on him, whether it is at home or at the pit, the better he will perform. It is very important to keep your roosters healthy, happy, and content.

    to be continued ..

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Very nice thread.
    Very informative.
    Do care to continue...

    More power Sir Onpoint

    BR

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    Member DON's Avatar
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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    ILL WAIT FOR THE CONTINUATION OF IT, OR PLS EMAIL ME AT dbragca@yahoo.com.VERY NICE THREAD...THANKS

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    PART TWO: ROTATION

    We use three types of accommodations for the keep. They are as follows:

    a. Tie Cords

    12' tie cords on 6' high teepees. These tie cords may be rubber half the way or all nylon. It is whatever is preferred or available.

    b. Fly Pens

    Fly pens which measure 4' wide by 10' high and deep with sand on the floor. The roosters have access to a fly up platform in the front of the fly pen to drink water and a roost pole 6' high towards the back of the fly pen with a roost measuring 6" wide. Chicken wire encloses over the top of the fly pens. We keep 2 to 3 hens across the top of the fly pens and running loose in the hallway in front of the roosters all the time. This keep the cocks active.

    c. Round Pens

    4' round pens with horse manure ( if possible ) in them. The pens are equipped with a short tie cord for easier moving of the roosters. If you prefer, you may want to use drop out pens instead of a round pen. It is whatever that is available to you. We have and use both methods. Our drop out pens are under an awning so they can be used it wet weather occurs.

    During the first 2 weeks, rotate your roosters 2 to 4 times a day if possible. The last week of the keep, if the weather permits, leave them on the 12' cord on the teepees. If the weather is rainy or cold, keep them in the fly pens.

    to be continued ..

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    PART THREE: FEED

    Our feed ratio is as follows:

    8 parts lay pellets
    4 parts pigeon grain ( option )
    4 parts oat groats
    4 parts wheat
    4 parts popcorn ( or good, clean whole corn )
    1/2 part oil sunflower seeds
    1/2 part calf manna
    1/2 part dry dog food
    1/2 part grower grit

    We recommend feeding dry agrain in the morning when the roosters are in the fly pens or on the tie out cords. We use an "army" tablesppon for the amount given to each rooster daily. An "army" tablespoon is slightly more than a regular tablespoon. Feed a slightly rounded teaspoon in the morning. For the evening feed in the rest stalls, mix a small amount of cooked brown rice along with your grains, coating all with a small amount of buttermilk, measuring a slightly rounded 1/4 cup for each rooster to be fed. We also use bee pollen on our feed the last five days. Put four or five granules in each feed cup on top of their evening feed. You can get bee pollen at most health food stores.

    Our keep feed is almost the same as our yard feed, with the exceoption of using a higher protein dog food. We use and recommend Science Diet ( tiny bites ). In the evening, the roosters should clean up all their feed within five minutes. If your roosters are not eating well, they will not show good. The last week of the keep, start adding more cracked corn/popcorn and cooked brown rice lessening the grains to the keep feed. Increasing the cracked corn/popcorn and cooked brown rice with the last two evening feeding nearly stright cracked corn/popcorn and cooked rice. During these last two nightly feedings, decrease the rooster's feed to 3/4 of his regular feed. The night before the show, feed only a level spoonful.

    After each feeding, clean the feed cups. Wait 10 to 15 minutes then offer your roosters water. Let them drink what they want, just be on thelook out for excessive drinkers. This may be an indication that the rooster is not finding his water during the day or there may be dehydration going on in his system. A rooster that drinks excessively a couple of days before the show is telling you that he is not ready.
    Last edited by OnPoint; August 3rd, 2009 at 12:47 PM.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    continuation ..

    We don't take the water away from the birds until fight day. We rest the birds in the keep stall all day before the derby. If the wather is rainy or wet, sometimes we may give them a sip of buttermilk the morning before the show. If the weather is normal, give them two or three sips morning and evening before the show. When the moisture is close to being right in a rooster, he won't want to drink even when it's offered.

    We always put our birds to bed on a rooster pole. This will help them drop out better during the night. Remember to keep the radio playing at all times.

    In our part of the country, the humidity stays fairly high but also can fluctuate frequently. When we are showing in the gaff, we try to keep the humidity around 65%. We use a dehumidifier to set the humidity if it is too high in the cockhouse. We use a humidifier to add moisture if the humidity is too low. If we are showing in the knife, we like to keep the humidity around 75%. A good all around temperature for the cockhouse is between 70 to 75 degrees. If you purchase a humidity gauge, don't buy a cheap one, buy a reliable instrument you could depend on for accuracy. With proper moisture content in their bodies, your roosters should show to the maximum of their ability.

    When you arrive at the pit, put your roosters in drop out pens for about 15 minutes. This will let them drop out and relax after the trip to the pit. Then put them in their rest stalls and relax them until show time. About two hours before the start of the show, give your roosters 2 or 3 pieces of cracked corn/popcorn saoked with buttermilk. Continue this "pecking" strategy every 2 hours during the show and until it is over. This will help keep them sharp. If their droppings appear to be too dry to you, give them a sip of buttermilk. Too dry equals less cutting ability. Pecking the roosters keeps their gizzards working. When they get too hungry they will go over on you. When this happens, the will over show and just can't get the "bullseye" on their target, the opponent.

    to be continued ..

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    nice... thanks... eager to read more...
    Aseel d Past, Present & Future - M.Romulo

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Thanks for sharing this knowledge.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    nice thread and hoping for more input . . .

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    PART FOUR: HELPFUL HINTS

    - Add ˝ teaspoon per gallon of Clorox bleach to your watering program at least twice a week. This not only helps kill any kind of bacteria build up in the water bowl, but can also help keep down certain types of worms within the chickens. It is just an all around good sanitation program to get started with your flock.

    - Use a good vitamin in the water 1 or 2 days a week. Fresh water daily on your flock is to your advantage. Next to a good feeding program, this is very important for good performance and a healthy flock.

    - Do not medicate just for the sake of it. If you have a problem with sick fowl, do your best to find out what the problem may be and use the proper medicine accordingly.

    - Keep your flock wormed and deloused on a regular program. Make sure you use a wormer that will get the tapeworms. If you have trouble with any type of flying and biting insects that pester your chickens, we have found a salve called Corona that can be bought at most any feed store or farmers cooperative. Just rub it around their ears and on top of their heads.

    - Do not overfeed. This is a mistake that almost all beginners and quite a few experienced cockers make. It is very hard for us to tell you how much to feed. Different types of fowl take different amounts of feed to stay at their proper weight. This is for your determination. We feed a level of ˝ measuring cup of feed per day per bird on the yard. This may vary up or down accordingly. If the roosters start feeling “leady” or heavy to you ( excess fat in the vent area ) cut them to a 1/3 cup. Always use precise measurements when feeding. Don’t depend on a hand full. Never feed a chicken that has left feed from the previous day. Always make sure your fowl are cleaning up what you feed them. If feed is always left, this may be an indication of a health problem, or your are grossly overfeeding.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    continuation ..

    - Your birds should be fed at the same time every day. A good solid schedule is a definite plus. This should never vary for more than half an hour.

    - Try to keep all broodstock on fresh ground. Most people keep their battle stags and cocks on tie cords, but put the key to their flock ( broodstock ) in one pen and leave them there. You will increase their productivity and longevity by several years by building moveable brood pens. Fresh ground is always a plus for healthy broodstock and your yard flock.

    - Before trimming stags, make sure they are in good health. If excessive bleeding occurs, wait another day. This is a stressful event on a stag, and taking a little extra precaution may help in the long run. Run a good water soluble vitamin in the water 4 to 5 days after trimming.

    - We strongly recommend a good vaccination program starting with you broodfowl, as some diseases can be transmitted through the egg and all the way to the chicks when they are hatched.

    - When hauling your birds to the show, be very careful of any fumes of any kind in your vehicle. Never smoke or allow anyone else to smoke in an enclosed vehicle with your birds. Always get gasoline before you load and haul. You would be surprised at how many shows of birds are loss during the haul.

    - Beware of “buffalo gnats.” They are blood suckers and get behind the ear and around the hackle feathers of fowl. If not cared for, they can literally kill chickens. Their infestation can take place in a matter of days. If you see a chicken standing with its tail hanging down, running in circles and continually scratching around the head, check for these tiny destroyers. If ignored, they can kill the fowl in a matter of days. They also like to bite humans and leave a welt.

    I hope these posts have been helpful. If I come across anything else, I'll be sure to post.

    just my two cents ..

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Nice! I'll be putting this on my archives hehe

    Thank You, Sir!

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Thank You, This Keep Is Similar To The One I Use To Use When It Was Legal.

  24. #16
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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Thank for the keep. It is very similar to mine. Its always good to hear from others. I actually have some slavin greys. I got from a good good friend of mine here in california. His name i dont want to say and im sure you know him.They are very good greys.thanks again my friend..

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    I remember reading about Mr. Slavin winning shows in our weapon of choice. I also remember seeing him in action. When I first got my hands on his keep, I read through to see if what was written matched what I seen him doing those times at the show. One of the benefits of being cockhouse neighbors .. haha .. Everything written ( at least the part about pit care ) matched what was done. He didn't win the derby those times but his show did put up quite a performance.

    Hope you all enjoyed it and more important benefit from the post.

    just my two cents ..

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    Senior Member popoi's Avatar
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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    thank you for this very informative inputs.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Quote Originally Posted by OnPoint
    I remember reading about Mr. Slavin winning shows in our weapon of choice. I also remember seeing him in action. When I first got my hands on his keep, I read through to see if what was written matched what I seen him doing those times at the show. One of the benefits of being cockhouse neighbors .. haha .. Everything written ( at least the part about pit care ) matched what was done. He didn't win the derby those times but his show did put up quite a performance.

    Hope you all enjoyed it and more important benefit from the post.

    just my two cents ..
    Onpoint,

    Thank you very much Onpoint,this is a $100 keep sold in his ads,you post it here for free.thank you again .

    yfis,
    frederick sy

  29. #20
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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    I didn't know that they still advertised in the magazines. I always thought they were out of the sport already. Anyways, I posted this on here because I think it's very informative and would be helpful to many. Hope the Slavins won't mind.

    just my two cents ..

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    thank you for sharing very informative thread!

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Thank you for sharing it OnPoint....

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Very informative....................

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    The Slaivns are very much still living the lifestyle , infact they are members here.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    I have no problem with you showing my keep all thou its out dated a little. We no longer sell the keep it is not legal to sell anything used to fight chickens in the U.S, A. The main thing is good health.Hope this helps some .Have a good one guys John Slavin

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    We no longer sell our keep since the laws have changed. I dont mind at all you showing it on here i love to help cockers out anyway we can. All thow it is out dated it will get you on the right track. John Slavin

  37. #27
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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    It's used to shape up show birds for 4H and poultry conformation shows only , nothing illegal about selling your feed/work method for that purpose.

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    beutiful for begiiners and learners like me...just subcribing to this thread....up up up

  39. #29
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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    Very Nice post, usefull and common sense info

    Jorge

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    Re: Black Hatch Farm Keep and Care System

    tyvm sir for this awesome info....

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