see post from International Game fowls farm post secret conditioning methods,
HATCH X ROUNDHEAD
SWEATER X HATCH
KELSO X SWEATER
LEMON X SWEATER
see post from International Game fowls farm post secret conditioning methods,
Thanks so much for the infos, I'll keep in touch.
after all has been said and done...
i agree with the 365 day keep.:smoke:
:crazy: :lol: Nice!!!
Read: (ness cabalfin's) first post, (Pg3) Except I say for me this is done from when they are (My selected stags) and have made it to my string walks and are soon to become Bull Stags or Cocks..
It's now their time to be, Put_Up and Fought!
I have my reasons..But!
I just dont like to fighting my fowl, and putting them up, if they are less than 19 months old. Just my Opinion. As to my Days, It's 27 days...&....It works for me!
Select the birds that show you they want to and are ready to fight..Then 27days and counting back from that fight day! You Start!
1st 14 days Clean prep worm & watch feed & water intake!
Birds on T-P's & Feed in cups not on the ground. Spar every 4 days and select the best ones, weigh them as to how they do... Day14, Weigh each one you have selected to put up!
You will need to KEEP THEM All At Their Weights that, they showed their best in, till fight day!
VERY VERY Important! Weight! & Same goes for Moisture!
Next 7 days, fly pens 1st day NO! pullet reason you use pullets is the cock got to work to catch them...Hens just stay on the perches...8th day before fight day..Up Coop The stalls should be big eneough that they can stretch their wings naturaly, say 20"Wide X 24" Deep X 22" High 1"X1" wire mesh floor..Under Up Coop Cage abt 2" below wire mesh you need to make a portable thin plywood floor..Every evening place the floors under the birds!You do this so you can check and grade their droppings for moisture and amount discarded...Also if the droppings were all in the same area? That would mean that the bird slept well, and was not up all night moving around...This to is Important! Proper Rest!
Note: Be sure to have the total area under the cages floor covered...This is to check their droppings and modify feed or water when necessary..Your starting to modify feed with Carb's Vitamins, Electrolites, And what ever your Super dooper Supliments are they to should be added to your feed...
In Coops I feed only evenings...Due to their restricted activity.
7th day, CHECK droppings! Then T-P's all day till the next morning..Feed 2 times mor- eve in cups
6th day, Morning put them back in UP -Coops. Same as day 8.
Day 5, same as day 7.
Day 4 Morning 7:00 _8:00 am put him, them w/pullets for 1 hour.
Then put on T-P's till That late evening, feed there. Then Place them in UP-Coops, Cover front opening and place ply-wood tray under their stalls, cages.
3rd day morning drop them into Droppens W/Flooring Tar Paper, Ply-Wood you dont want them eating anything off the ground...Leave for 1 hour check their droppings for the moisture and the amount that each bird shall drop! They should all be about the same or the same content color & moisture!
From this 3rd day only and on..Only 1/2 a scant cup of water..Reason is! You only want them to dip the water and not drink it! they should be droped 2 times Morn & Eve
for 1 hr..You should all know by now that you start cutting your feed on the 3rd Day, so they be empty at least 18 to 24 hrs before fight time..
2nd day morning check water all should be almost empty or empty.. Check dropings, moisture and contents, color..Get your baddest cocks out and drop each one of them against your fowl to be fought! 4 to 5 feet apart ..1 fly only! GRADE THEM and this should be your fighting order, for Hack starting from the best 1st to the last,(Bite Bird)...I Now Trim my Cocks to be fought and theres no feed or water after 10:00am. That Day before Fight Day..Holding them at point while fighting a long derby is a whole different world.. When you feed them out and rest them..
If you had them all consistant as to their water intake and Droppings and texture, you did a good job putting them up...
This method can be used with or with-out Drug Enhencements. I prefer the Enhencements and Feed additives and the injectable B-12 & the B-15 during keep and 3 days prior to fight time.
ALWAYS DO WHAT WORKS FOR YOU.....The best guide is K.I.S.S.!
For me it's a plane, and Effective Rule, to just "Keep It Simple Stupid!"
Just my Opinion....Good Luck and Always be First to the Line and your Bird!
It's your job to protect him! ......
Can you give any illustrations on this my friend so that some of our fellas may see it. Thanks, keep in touch.:teeth:
There are no illistrations on what I do during the 27 days!
I use a Calender board with the days of the month on it and all the knowledge of trial and errors of my 11 years experience. On What Works and What dose Not! I designed my own, Conditioning Method & Keep, based on my Job and Priorities at home and the time I can spend with my gamefowl..My Family comes First and my Birds 2nd! My world with my fowl of 180 birds is a 1-man show, Me! So my methods & keep is actually for a working man...I refuse to let my fowl make me their Slave!
So I say this STRESS can reall bring out the Animal in GameFowl I'm a firm beliver in this method of Raising and feeding my Fowl..
I X-out my fight day & count backwards, 27days. My keep and methods used to administer the drugs and Feed Suplements has been carefully planed as to adminesterung and adding them to the rooster and his feed, ON THIS BOARD and followed to the T!
AND "IM ALWAYS WATCHING MY WEATHER" , at least 2 days ahead. (Seacret) You hardly ever hear any one mention this! But I Have, and this is Really Important during your keep as to their, Feed in-take, Conditioning & when your feeding them out, to Point! Very Important! A Rooster functions the best at a body temperature of 80`to 82`degrese, This is a little on their anatomy and that Science Part I've mentioned before! You want all your roosters, Sharp and Agile like a Gymnast and NOT like a Weight lifter! Speed, Stamina, Endurence, is your objective! Their CUT & SPEED, comes from w/in their families genitics, that you have controled through breeding, these battlefowl of yours! You may not realize this? But How a Rooster fights and the Style he fights is based on genitics of the strain! The best Conditioner Feeder cant put CUT in your Pit Fowl! So a good Keep would have no bennifit on a rooster with a lot of legs and no direction and style ! He would not be able to, CUT his way out of a paper bag.
You need CUT in good Pit Fowl & that comes through breeding winners to producers of winners..3/4ths of your battles can be won by this method of breeding and yor 365-24/7!
I have not made a change in over 3 years, except for the Fight Day! I'm Sorry! But! My KEEP and information on, What I do and How I do It remains with Me..
Whats MORE important than a Good Bloodline of Gamefowl is a good Feeder & Conditioner, Who also Straps his Roosters to their Weapon and their Kills are Fast!
Cant go wrong using a Calender board to keep records and if need be make changes and adjustments...Bottom line YOU HAVE RECORDS whether bad or good you have this information to follow, in your preperations of future Keeps..
..Many things that I use have been talked a bout on Sabong..Such as the use of the B-Complex & Vitamins, Also the B-15. 1000, NightOwl, B-15 w/Liver.
The best thing I can recomend is that You Need To really get into your Roosters! You start with your FEED! Their Anatomy because they have a gizard that helps digest food makes them unique as to their structure and tollerences...(Bloodline, Health, Vitality)
Bullet: What your asking for is My Method and Keep which as I said prior. Sabong articles have posted about Conditioning, the use of B-Vitamins and there Complexes, Inhencers, Dr Blues, Red Gel, Vionate, Red Viper, Androplex and for those who dont condition but just like to fight and see blood theres, (Mr Pure Agression)
AS I SAID! KNOWLEDGE is the Key to WINNING! SERIOUS PLANNING and Compiling Data from Sabong past Postings on what your asking me for.. Many of their pasts posts is the best Research Tool I know at this moment....I have been w/Sabong now for about 3 years & I thank them. Those SERIOUS Breeders and FIGHTERS that have Added their Excellent Comments and Opinions and Findings and Knowledge as to their tests, that many have Experienced and they Work! But they too have many Secreats that they do not mention! You still need to read in between their lines to figure out? WHY!
You should be able to tell whos SERIOUS and Whos a WANA-B_NEW-B.....
GET A NOTE BOOK AND A FEW PENCILES AND START DOING RESEARCH as you read information NOTE IT DOWN THEN PLAN AND DESIGN YOUR OWN KEEP! I Think YOU know what I'm Getting At? I fight all over and tie Knife for many! I would hate to meet MY EQUAL in the Pit! THE ART OF COCK Fighting is all about Secrets and Knowledge of this Serious Sport! $$$$$!
I cant STRESS MORE, THAT YOU DO NEED GOOD QUALITY GAMEFOWL THAT KICKS ASS TO GET OFF ON A GOOD START! GOOD LUCK! THIS IS THE BEST I CAN RECOMEND TO ANYONE!
Whew i don't have any secret to share..
Im just a green apple in this sport.
YOU GOT TO START SOME WHERE, TO BEGIN..It's What you do in life, is what you become! So be serious about what you do and know why your doing it!
I my self is a good lestener, absorb the knowledge that I can get and apply it. THANKS FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART THAT SHARE WHAT I NEED.
you're right my friend, your method that really applies and works for you must be initiated, since this kind of sport is not joke, its a serious matter that applies your money, time and effort. Thanks for the reply, this is an eye opener to new breeder's.:rbounce:
bugbog sarado na ang tinali kung ang pagkokondisyon ay sobrang tagal baka tumayo nalang ito sa gradas at hintaying pumalo ang kalaban :lol:
listen more and talk less, its a good habit
i have a good conditioning method and pointing method.....but before you put a bird on a keep he must be healthy
yah! it's important that he is healthy even before we well condition them, so that the vitamins that we gave to them will not be wasted, and before we keep them for its future fights. Goodluck!!! :lol:
Can any one help me on a feeding method on a 21 day keep or any advice you may have on a conditioning keep. if so email me @ firstname.lastname@example.org
Cockmeyts, any additional infos regarding this or any new ideas or your personal KNOWLEDGE, you can share to our fellow cockmeyts who are only new in this world. thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
my practice .... since i only have few heads to maintain, and feed & medications does not make much cost difference, so i just maintain the normal conditioning feeding programs .. with regular vits supplements .... routine rotation and regular light workouts ( including sparring with different cocks rotationally ) during their pre-conditioning period ... the cock must be in striking distance of their "ideal" fighting weight ...
then, for proper conditioning period, 45-60 days ... adjust the workouts accordingly, this comes with "booster shots" to adjust the regimen and have their overall well-being adapt to the stress and pressure, ... they should be moving towards better or improve agility, power, cutting, timing, speed ... then the last 14-days before figth day ... critical and pointing period ...so extra attention / observation applies ... until fight day
You're right pre, goodluck..
If my chicken is ready....he is ready! no matter how many
days you keep him in the training....if you're real sabongero
you will be know him if your chicken is ready to fight....
You're right also my friend, Its like a boxer, just the proper conditioning is lack.
my conditioning period includes the following:
1. proper exercise for two months before the fight.
2. proper series of feedings
3. proper rest
4. and orgasm neutralization
at least you can have 3 sparring sessions in your conditioning period so you can observe and see the progress of your keep...so minimum is 21 days....or more....